Abel Tasman National Park - hiking a New Zealand coastline
The walk begins at the end of town, not far from a large car parking area and a lovely eating/drinking spot known as The Park Café. Signs advise how long it is to the next part of the track so that you can gauge exactly how far too walk. If I was doing a multi-day walk I would probably arrange a water taxi from Mapua to take me out further into the park. This enables a walk back along the coast finishing at The Park Café with a large glass of wine – surely the best way to end an incredible adventure. Today though I am just going to walk a short way – to dip my toes into this expansive but rewarding New Zealand coastal park. The sign tells me the distance, walking at an average person pace, to various beaches dotted along the park. I decide to allow my legs carry me as far as I can get.
At first the walk traverses a boardwalk over the estuary, the tide is out and various sea birds frequent the area scrummaging on the sandy banks for morsels of food. I enter the start of the bush with a long sandy beach to my right hand side. It looks inviting but I press onwards further into the forest. There is some replanting taking place alongside the pathway as never-ending work continues to ensure the Abel Tasman remains as it was always supposed to be. The path way is sandy but stable although I have to keep my eye out for losses rocks and tree routes that jut through. I continue climbing steadily upwards and into denser bush.
Tin Cup beach is on my right, a short walk down hill and up on my left is the campsite which is a grass clearing ready for use by tents. As I continue onwards a weka wanders down the pathway towards me. He looks up and we peer at one another, hello weka I say, the weka responds by plunging into the nearest bush for safety. As I climb higher the views of the coastline beneath me begin to peek into view.
The teal green colour of the sea, a marine reserve, is mesmerizing on a sunny day. Further out across the water are islands – Adele and Tonga, both protected sanctuaries for bird life and home to large colonies of the New Zealand Fur Seal. If you peer hard enough you can sometimes make out the seals bobbing and twisting around in the water. I hear a couple of fantails squeak around me, following me through the forest, a family of quail pop out onto the pathway and dart off again.
On my left hand side a baby bird pops its head out of the bush. It catches my eye and I notice a trio of fluffy baby wekas eagerly peering at me. Suddenly a large warning squawk tells me abruptly to go away – it’s mum or dad anxious to protect their little ones. I heed their advise and carry on. The track narrows in places, where waterfalls cascade down it’s sides. Dark patches of forest where the sun rays never quite reach a patchy underfoot.
Next instalment coming shortly…….. watch this space…..