Havelock, home of the delicious green lipped mussel and gateway to Marlborough

Havelock is known as the gateway to the Marlbourgh Sounds. It’s also the mussel capital of New Zealand – and that’s quite a claim given how well renowned the green lipped mussels are in this area.

The town itself is neat and compact postioned at the end of one of the sounds. Like many people I had only previously ever driven through it on my way to places. I was always tempted to pull over and try out one of the many eateries along the main highway which offered lunches of the local mussels amongst other temptations. I’d never got around to it though until I hired a campervan to spend the weekend touring the local area. Havelock has a friendly, efficient camp site situated right in the centre of the township. It’s so easy to park up and then get out and explore. The marina is just behind the site and it was much bigger than I imagined. The gateway out into the Sounds it’s a popular spot to launch a boat. The mussel barges also berth here servicing the farms growing in the vast clean waters. You can be absolutely certain that any mussel served here is as fresh as it comes given they are grown just out across the bay.

Havelock Marina, a popular spot on a sunny afternoon

A circuit around the marina and onto the main high street brought me to a number of pubs and cafes offering mussel creations. I opted for the Captains Daughter, a pub built in a traditional manner, the type you would expect to find in an English village with a real fire glowing in the centre to warm the coggles. It wasn’t too chilly though on the winters day I visited and the deck outside was inviting. A large area it was warmed by the weak winters sun. I ordered a glass of local Marlborough sav and the toughest decision was to decide between the steamed or grilled mussels. I opted for grilled in garlic butter and a side portion of chips to complete the meal. It sure was heaven..

Locally caught green lipped mussels served grills from the Captain’s Daughter in Havelock

Havelock is surrounded by bush lined hills rising to meets the sounds, and although the main road to Nelson was just outside the door I failed to notice it.

Just down the road from Havelock is Pelorus. A pull off just before the small one lane bridge takes you into a carpark surrounded by bush. There is access to a campsite and café here. The café is an excellent spot to call off at – their cakes and pies are top notch (yes okay I’ve sampled a few, I confess). To make up for said calorie count are several walks leading off from here that range in lengths - I will discuss all about the local walks in this area in a later blog….. 

Coming up – great camping spots around the South Island

The bush smothered hills surrounding the town of Havelock, gateway to the Marlborough Sounds