Hanging out in history in the old gold town of Cardrona
The Cardrona Hotel is one of the oldest in New Zealand and reckoned to be the most photographed. It’s not hard to understand why. The grand old dame dates to 1863 when the area was in the midst of a gold rush. At the time there where four hotels in Cardrona and it was a bustling prosperous hub for the area. Visiting the sleepy settlement now it’s hard in all honesty to imagine it. Today it’s a quiet place with just a few properties remaining. The Cardrona Hotel still stands due to the endeavours of previous owners who were keen to preserve this slice of New Zealand history. It is now a popular spot for après ski drinks (there are a couple of excellent ski fields just down the road) an excellent restaurant and even has a few comfortable hotel rooms at the back. I decided to stay the night to experience this unique spot for myself. It was a cold blustery evening, but the bar was cosy with its real log fires and huge comfy sofas. There were crowds of people both inside and outside – the back garden is home to an appealing fire pit which lets off a lot of heat to warm the chilly cockles. After a day on the ski fields there is probably no better place to hang out.
My room was at the back of the hotel, thankfully not overlooking the raucous beer garden, which meant I could enjoy some quiet time to myself. With the radiator cranked up it soon became lovely and toasty. Furnishings are old worldly and charming a bit like the pub itself, so even though this part of the hotel was only built this century it has the feel of times past. I’d booked dinner in the restaurant that night (the nearest other place to eat was in Wanaka several kilometres drive away, which at night in the dark didn’t really appeal). I was glad I did have a booking as it was packed. I was seated at a table by the fire which was very welcoming to enjoy a hearty plate of homemade curry. I’d heard that the current owners had worked hard to improve the food offerings, and this was certainly bared testament in my meal. There are burgers, steaks even nachos on the menu depending on your appetite.
I ventured to bed very contented and pleased I hadn’t had an encounter with the resident ghost!
After a comfortable night’s sleep, I was up much earlier than most which meant a quick visit to the hotel’s restaurant again for a breakfast of poached eggs on toast. I would have tried their homemade porridge or eggs benedict, but I had a pressing engagement so needed to be on my way swiftly. I’m heading back to linger longer and enjoy the hotel as it rises to another busy day.
The reason for my hurry on this particular morning was that I had to drive up the long meandering road to the top of the Snow Farm, one of the ski fields in the Cardrona area. Whilst it takes a while to twist and turn upwards the views on offer are spectacular. As you venture higher the scene beneath you unwraps in every direction and affords awesome views of the other Cardrona ski field just across the valley. On a clear day it is quite a sight. As I reached the top the grassy tussock roadside scenery was replaced by alpine rubble covered with a thick layer of pure white snow. The Snow Farm lodge itself is an extensive building complete with eateries, ski facilities and accommodation. If you are fortunate to have a clear day it would be a top place to base yourself, especially at night when it must feel that you can actually reach up and touch the stars.
My morning was going to be taken up doing something I’d always dreamt about, driving my own sled dog team. I’d arranged to meet up with Underdog NZ at 10.30am at the Snow Farm to start my tour.
Look out for my next blog soon………