A day out in Akaroa, New Zealand's little slice of French paradis

The drive to Akaroa across the rugged hills of the Banks Peninsula is worthy of a day trip in its own right. There are two routes – a tourist route high above the peninsula which offers great views and turns offs to some of the regions most remote beaches – and the main route
(when I say main it’s all relative) which takes you through small townships and pass pretty bays.

This blog though is about Akaroa itself and I will focus on the two memorable journeys to get there in a later article.

Akaroa is a small seaside settlement set in an idealyic location at the end of a long harbour bearing the same name. It has a French feel to it with French street names and Parisian style signs. The story is that the French originally thought they had agreed with local Maori to
inhabit the area only to find on their return that the British has claimed the area for themselves following the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi. However, the French that did arrive where invited to stay and their influence on the area is still felt today.

Akaroa is a pretty place to just wander around, there are a couple of beaches to enjoy and an historic lighthouse. As you walk along the waterside boardwalk there are numerous cafes and restaurants to enjoy with pavement seating if the weather is good. There is even a
waterside bar (Harbar) which has been developed from the old toilet block!
Paddle boards can be hired from the beach and a little further around the bay
there are kayaks and paddle boats available.

If you venture to Akaroa though  (and please do) the main incentive is to get out onto the water. There are several boat trips to choose from and all take in the gorgeous harbour (Akaroa actually means long harbour) and seek out the resident Hector Dolphins that frequently inhabit the bay. Hectors are the worlds smallest dolphins and stand out due to their rounded dorsal fin. Several of the operators allow  swimming with the dolphins if the conditions are right. The boat trips come in all shapes and sizes so it’s entirely up to you which you select. The one with the dog spotting dolphin is recommended though….how could you possibly resist?

After an exhausting fun packed day out on the harbour it’s worth indulging in some fish and chips and this is something Akaroa does well. There are two options – Akaroa Fish and Chips which is situated on the seafront and often has a queue spilling out the door, or Murphys which is tucked away down a side street. Blue cod is most likely available at the first option and it is very good, but Murphy’s actually catch their own fish daily. So your choice is what has been caught by their fishermen that morning! Murphys  has a kiosk on the main wharf which is popular in the summer months. There is also a caravan serving delicious pizza back on the main shopping street in summertime – if he’s open you’ll spot his sign outside – the salmon pizza is a must try, as is the standard Margaretia.

As night falls the options in this small town keep coming. You can choose to join one of the excellent trips to the family farm over the headland in Pohatu. The beach here is called Flea Bay and its home to the most successful colony of little blue penguins to be found in all of Australasia. The evening tour starts at dusk as the little penguins begin returning to their nests after a day out fishing. You can easily spot them returning from the sea and if your lucky you will spot a few in their nests. They are quite territorial and will soon warn you if they don’t want you close, one actually tried to peck me when I crouched down for a closer look! Another of the boxes opened by my guide revealed two youngsters eagerly awaiting their parents return. The guides use the tours to monitor the many boxes. It is a truly wonderful tour as you learn about the penguins and the farms owners who have done so much for conservation in this area. The scenery you encounter isn’t too bad either. They also run day trips and offer guided kayaking tours.

Another must try after dark activity for the adventuress is NightSUP paddle boarding. LED lights are fitted under the boards so that the sea water beneath is lit up to reveal all the underwater activity. It is a magical sight. There are huge stingrays that inhabit the shallow waters and are often spotted underneath the paddle boards.

Akaroa is also home to a popular cooking school. It’s worth checking out their timetable to see what availability there is for attending one of their courses. They offer many different types depending on taste, so you can indulgence in Italian, Spanish or even Asian cuisine.
They all come with excellent reviews and who doesn’t love an afternoon wineing and dining.

Of course there are many other things to try in Akaroa and it might be worth extending your stay. Excellent accommodation options can be found in the area. One of my own favourites is
slightly out of town at Onuku Farm Hostel which offer Star Gazers - small tent shape huts with glass panels above your head – you can well and truly star gaze here on clear evenings. Another top spot is at the Pohatu Penguin colony where you can stay overnight and fall asleep to the sound of penguin chatter. If you wish to stay in Akaroa itself I would recommend the Criterion Motel.

A few snaps from our time in Akaroa. Star Gazing, paddle boarding and penguin spotting…..