Being woken by a screaming Kiwi (the bird type) on Stewart Island

I knew there were Kiwis nearby - of the bird variety that is. Stewart Island is home to thousands more of them than people.

Camping at Port William between the bush and the beach

I’d arrived at Port William Campsite late in the afternoon after completing the first (and my absolute favourite part) of the 3-day Rakiura Track Great Walk. (Another article coming soon folks). Before sunset I had used the time to fix up my tent, have some tea and stroll down the stunning beach right in front of the campsite several times taking in the serenity. It was a stunning, cloudless evening out to sea with a few clouds building up over the bush behind. A Department of Conservation Hut was nearby but apart from that it was just me, the beach and the dense rainforest I had previously hiked through as a backdrop. Information signs informed me that there were Kiwi in the area, but this was no surprise as Kiwi are known for being everywhere on Stewart Island. As I prepared for my night’s sleep, keen to get much needed rest before another early start in the morning, I kept my eyes peeled hoping to catch a glimpse of an early riser. Kiwis are nocturnal and notoriously difficult to spot being extremely shy. Some sightings have been made on Stewart Island though in the daylight hours. However, with the persistently annoying sandflies now replaced by mosquitos and my legs beginning to ache I decided to call it a night and tucked myself in my sleeping bag, falling to sleep with the rolling sound of the waves a short distance away. It was only a short while later I was awoken by the sound of disturbance outside my tent. On my ownsome in the middle of nowhere my mind began to play tricks. Maybe the local madman was outside eager to make me his latest victim! As my senses took hold, and my common-sense too I realised that something was busy pecking around my tent. Now this is not so unusual, and it has happened to me before camping out in the remote New Zealand bush but previously it had been a cheeky Weka that was keen to pinch my tent pegs or raincoat or indeed anything else left unattended that it could get its claws on. This time the snuffling sounded different. Still persistent as I heard pecking around my head at the top of the tent. There was something out there and it seemed intent on breaking in!

Leaving only footprints….and kiwi tracks

I lay completely still unsure what to do. Should I make a noise and perhaps alert it to my presence? Or lay rigid as I was curious as to what it might do next and whether my tent would remain in once piece come morning. I opted for the latter and was rewarded with more sniffling and pecking that went on a good wee while. I think my tent was well and truly checked out. Then suddenly a shrill shriek pierced the silence, right next to my left ear! It penetrated through the still, silent air like nothing I have ever heard. I later found out that this was the calling call for the Kiwi male when he is looking for a partner. What a noise, what a night, what an experience. The only time I have wanted to be terrified in the remote bush alone in a tent - there is a story in that….

The following morning, I followed my Kiwi trail down the beach. My new friend had left his tracks that eventually tapered off into the rainforest. I couldn’t see him, but I’m certain he had his beady eye on me.