Sunrise Kayak - Milford Sound — New zealand uncovered

After my crazy drive to reach Milford Sound before dawn (please see my article on the Milford Road drive to get an idea of the sheer madness I am referring too) I was ready for a lie down! However, there was a good reason for me to reach Piopiotaki (Milford Sound) so early and whilst it was still bucketing it down with rain - a Sunrise Kayak. It was quite literally dark, dingy and cold and most certainly not the type of weather to go kayaking in. I met my guide anticipating a sea of apologies about the weather (as if they could do anything about that) and the calling off of my kayak adventure. Instead, I was greeted with a warm welcome (both personally and in general as the heat of the visitor centre was very much appreciated) and told that I would soon be taken to get started out on my trip. The Sunrise Classic was on and the drive from hell was possibly going to be worth my while.

One of the many stunning waterfalls to be found at Milford Sound

I’d dressed in warm gear and waterproof clothes but was told to leave that all behind. Instead, I was ordered to slip on some thermal underwear and a warm fleece and spray jacket. Apparently, it’s cold out there on that Sound. I don’t know what was worse to be honest, the very inelegant underwear or the attack of the sandflies that had awoken with the first rays of light ravenous now the rainstorm had finally stopped. By the time I’d attached my life jacket I’d been literally swarmed - thankfully insect repellent was a plenty. '

View of the river leading to Milford Sound and close to the kayak ‘changing rooms’

Once in our kayaks our guide led us out into a small outlet of Milford Sound away from the harbour area where all the large cruise ships operated.

Looking back at the docking point for cruises taking trips down Milford Sound

There were only four kayaks and our guide, a nice small group and we all got know a little a bit about one another at our safety briefing. It was then a paddle across Fiordland. I looked up to the pleasant surprise of seeing clouds clearing above Mitre Peak - the famous mountain that is to be found on almost every image of Milford Sound and is believed to be the highest mountain to rise out of the sea. It’s quite something to see it early morning with the sun rising.

Looking out down Milford Sound on a hazy wet morning

Soon though our attention was distracted by something even more special. A rare Fiordland Crested penguin had just arrived on the edge of the bank right in front of us and was busy cleaning itself down. The poor guy was being hounded by the sandflies who were then more than happy to attack us as we approached closer to our newfound penguin friend. Leaving said penguin to some peace we followed the shore of the Sound further around the coastline with the only sound being the slaps of our paddles in the water. The water here is a mixture of darkened freshwater from the waterfalls and sea water. As you stare upwards at the steep granite rock faces that seem to tower above your forever you feel mighty small. There surely is no better way to experience such a place than in a kayak out amongst it all.

Our guide now set us a challenge, to paddle the full width of the Sound. It sounds easy but when the wind rises, and the waves become bigger it can be quite a battle. I would recommend a moderate level of fitness for this adventure. It was worth the paddle and the excitement of surfing the waves created by the various boats that passed by taking day trippers on scenic cruises of the Sound - an absolute must do by the way, to reach Harrison Cove on the far side. I actually know Harrison Cove pretty well - I once spent an overnight stay here when on the Milford Mariner and I will write a blog about how incredible and well worth it that experience was at a later date.

Milford Mariner heading out down the sound on a cruise

Harrison Cove is the areas most sheltered anchorage, hence the overnight tours stopping here. It is usually a great spot to spy on snoozing New Zealand fur seals resting on rocks nearby. As we turned back towards the end of the Sound we came across Bowen Falls - a stunning waterfall dropping 160metres from a hanging valley high above. It is the perfect spot to see from a kayak as you can paddle right underneath it. The rocks on the approach create an archway in the water below and we had a spectacular rainbow created above us by the plunging water. Paddling under and through the waterfall is quite a surreal experience. The photos taken do not celebrate the magic anywhere near enough.

After an incredible morning spent paddling roughly 10kms. We headed back to base all reluctant to leave our small piece of paradise. Kayaking Milford Sound is the most peaceful way to enjoy this unique spot.