Devonport and it's astonishing history, an Auckland suburb worth exploring

Directly across the harbour from central Auckland is Devonport. Devonport is positioned on the end of a peninsula and is the quintessential colonial suburb - all white washed villas with wrap around verandas. Devonport is framed on either side by two extinct volcanos, Mount Victoria and North Head.  Much of Devonport is built on old lava flows that descend from Mount Victoria, ‘The Hill Standing Above’ as per the meaning of its Maori name, Takarunga. Mount Victoria is the highest natural point to be found in Auckland and is situated, very handily, close to the villages main through fare. A brief ferry journey and short walk took me up to the volcano that was once home to a Maori Pa (a traditional fortified settlement). Some reminders of this time are still visible on the peak today. The memorising views across to the city make the climb worthwhile.

Descending along the Mount Victoria lookout path I ventured through the pretty tree lined streets towards Cheltenham Beach. Hidden away on the far side of Devonport this long sandy stretch of coastline is sheltered and peaceful, a perfect spot for a swim on a summer’s day. My objective though was to stroll its full length to join the stairway up to North Head or Maungauika as it is known in Maori. Devonport’s second volcano is now a significant historical site. It was New Zealand’s most important coastal defence post for some 120 years due to its perfect position overlooking the entrance to the harbour with magnificent perspectives across the whole of the Hauraki Gulf.

A self-guided walk took me underground and through a net-work of interlinking tunnels, old barracks and gun encasements. The construction of this underground city began back in the 1870’s due to the perceived ‘Russian scares’ when people became convinced that New Zealand would suffer some sort of Russian attack. Forty prisoners lived on the summit of North Head in 1885 and built many of the tunnels and gun batteries. In World War Two North Head’s summit again became the focal point for Auckland’s defence against possible submarine attack in the harbour. In fact, the New Zealand navy did not fully vacate the site until 1996. It is now open to the public to explore its historic attractions.

What has endured since the Navy days are North Head’s mysteries. Rumours continue to persist of hidden tunnels and unknown objects. A recurring story is about two fully sized passenger aircraft being hidden in the depths of the volcano. No one quite knows why this story started, an urban legend no doubt, and despite numerous archaeological surveys and studies nothing has ever been discovered – not yet anyhow……