Seabirds galore on an Albatross Encounter Tour

A morning Albatross Encounter tour awaited and I eagerly met up with skipper Gary to head out on the hunt for the mightiest sea bird of them all. Our boat was small and open-sided which meant a perfect view was to be had on this gloriously sunny day. Gary explained that one of the best starting points was to seek out the local fishing boats as sea birds naturally pursue these chaps hoping for some of their scraps. It didn’t take very long to spot some activity up ahead and our little boat surfed and jumped the pacific waves rapidly to reach it. Almost immediately we began being circled by some rare and exciting sea birds – Mollymawks, Westland Petrels (who I personally thought had handsome faces), and boisterous Northern Giant Petrels who happily scrapped with each other right by our boat as they fought over the chunk of ham Gary had tossed into the ocean. After a short while and a lot of happy photo snaps later we headed off again. This time Gary told us we were going further out to sea all the way to the edge of the Kaikoura Canyon. As the engine stopped and we bobbed and swayed about it was mentioned that the sea floor beneath us was at least 1km deep! Our eyes were thankfully more focused on what was happening overhead. We all silently waited as more and more birds began to appear. Gary pointed several specific ones out for our attention – the Hutton’s Shearwater and Buller’s Shearwater, a Wandering Gibson’s Albatross and a New Zealand White-Capped Albatross. An awesome spectacle was on display but the show stopper and the bird we all instantly recognized with a collective gasp was the Southern Royal Albatross. It soared across in front of the boat, a very close distance above our heads! For a bird with such a large wingspan (about three metres) it was wondrously graceful. It felt awfully surreal drifting about out on the ocean with the only noise being a raucous squeal or flap of oversized wings. Gary informed us that many of the Albatross we were seeing nest down in the Campbell Islands, 700km south of New Zealand’s South Island. Several of these Albatross have been tracked using satellite transmitters which have showed them capable of travelling up to 1,000km per day!!  Despite observing all these astounding over-sized seabirds my own personal favourite was the little Fluttering Shearwater – a tiny guy by comparison. They fly just above the water with a series of rapid wing beats – hence their endearing name.

Swimming with the fur seals, in Kaikoura

Seal Swim Kaikoura afforded me the fantastic opportunity of mixing it up with the playful New Zealand fur seals. First though I needed to get dressed and geared-up for such an occasion, so I headed into the changing rooms at the back of their office in Kaikoura’s main street.  Decked out in a snug fitting buoyant wet suit complete with snorkel and mask I was all set to trickily wade my way over to the distinctive yellow Seal Swim Bus. During our short journey our enthusiastic crew told us all about the seals and how the location chosen to swim in changed daily dependent on the clarity of the water and playfulness of the seals. I was reminded that any interaction was at their discretion and it was crucial to remember that this was a wild encounter. Luckily New Zealand fur seals are a naturally curious bunch and as we approached in the Seal Swim yellow zodiac boat – yes there is a lot of yellow going on - the younger pups were soon inquisitive, peering down at us eager to discover what these odd things were! Impatient to get in the water I donned my face mask, set up my snorkel and gently guided myself over the edge of the boat. The sea water instantly felt on the cold side – it was the Pacific Ocean after all – and the waves a little choppy, but this soon mattered not one iota as I began to see movement around me in the water. Clambering about on solid ground they were a clumsy bunch, but in the water, it was a different matter entirely as they twisted, turned, spun and weaved, gliding through the water uninhibited. All the time I got the impression though that they were still being mischievously inquisitive.  I kicked against the tide putting my head down just in time to see a seal swim right up to my mask and peer direct at me. For a few precious seconds I literally was nose to nose with a fur seal! I struggled to think of an adequate word to help describe this amazing close-up encounter – perhaps honoured.

Spotting whales over Kaikoura

‘This whale is going to dive any second now, have your cameras at the ready’ our Pilot, Edward, shouted back from the cockpit of the small aircraft as we flew repeated circles around a magnificent sperm whale clearly visible just metres below in the clear teal waters of the Kaikoura sea. The ‘Wings Over Whales’ plane was set up perfectly to give every one of us seven passengers a perfect close-up view of any activity happening below. Sperm whales are resident all year round in Kaikoura as they feed off the ample quantities of squid that are present in the deep depths of the Kaikoura Canyon - a colossal underwater mountain range which begins just a short distance out from the shore line.

My experience began with a presentation about Kaikoura and the sperm whales followed by a concise but thorough safety briefing. Every flight appears to be timed to try to coincide with when they understand a whale may breach the surface – as each whale only spends roughly about ten minutes taking in air before descending vertically deep down into the dark depths below. The take-off along the grass runway was an experience in itself - before I even began to take in the majestic view out over the coastline.  It was the whales though that I really wanted to see, and I soon felt a rush of excitement throughout the plane as one was suddenly sighted. At up to eighteen metres in length these are true giants of the sea. From the air I was able to fully appreciate their substantial size and scale, from head to tail literally!

After experiencing such a buzz from the air, I figured that now I needed to get out in the water itself to encounter on a closer basis some of this area’s incredible marine life. You see the resident sperm whales are just the start, also present are huge pods of dusky dolphins, large breeding colonies of New Zealand Fur Seals and a staggering array of rare and unique seabirds.

Otago Peninsula, Pilots Beach, Little Blue Penguins coming home

The staff at the Royal Albatross Centre recommended I return that evening for a rather special homecoming. Each night at dusk huge numbers of Korora or Little Penguins arrive back at Pilots Beach just beneath Taiaroa Head on the Otago Peninsula. A purpose-built boardwalk allows visitors to experience the noisy and calamitous arrival without distressing or disrupting the penguins. Just as darkness appears to consume the shoreline the penguins begin to congregate into what is known as a raft to make a collective group return to dry land. As I waited silently I spotted dark shapes moving swiftly across the water as the rafts began to reach the shoreline. Loud squawks emerged out from the darkness. Then small dark silver specks started to tumble onto the beach, belly flopping ashore and then clumsily climbing up onto their flippered feet. And so, the penguin march began. It started with a few and then gradually these curious and cute little guys were all around us, scrambling over the rocky beach, meandering along well-worn penguin pathways to the grassy headlands above. Excited yelps cut through the night as penguins were reunited. Some paused for a while directly under my feet on the boardwalk. Others comically shuffled up a pathway to return shortly afterwards obviously having taken a wrong turn in their eagerness to arrive home. I checked with my guide who elatedly told me that over one hundred and fifty had returned that night, a thrilling result as numbers continue to increase following the protective measures put in place.

Dunedin, Discover Street Art, Fabulous Cafes and Modern Charm

As I strolled back down through the streets of central Dunedin I allowed my imagination to run wild. I pictured the horse drawn carts tracking up town clip-clopping along the long avenues that all seem to lead towards The Octagon. Purpose built to be the central point of the city The Octagon is a large plaza with pedestrian areas and lively cafes, bars and restaurants. It is easy to get absorbed by Dunedin’s charismatic past, but that is not to ignore the modern city which is a charming, bustling student town with a thriving coffee culture. Strolling around I came across enticing cafes on every corner often situated in distinguished heritage buildings.  With names such as Morning Magpie and The Perc Exchange for example they help to set the hip and modern vibe which the city is seemingly embracing. Street Art is also flourishing. Down alleyways, overlooking carparks ostensibly on every possible blank space or bare wall a contemporary street artist has made their descriptive, interesting and notable mark. Both New Zealand and International artists have been drawn to the city including notable names such as Faith 47 and ROA. ROA is responsible for some captivating aerosol work with one wall covered by a giant Tuatara, a reptile endemic to New Zealand. Keen to embrace its flourishing art profile Dunedin has established its own Street Art Trail which can be followed either on a guided tour with a passionate local or by following the Dunedin Street Art Map which is provided by the local tourist office. As I trail blazed around town following the ninety-minute walk I was able to appreciate not only lots of inspiring art work but also to uncover some of Dunedin’s hidden gems. The walk gave me an excuse to check out narrow laneways and discover ‘wee alley ways’ as they are locally known together with significant land marks that included the ‘First Church of Otago’. I stumbled across some excellent local venues such as Vogel Street Kitchen – a terrific coffee house and deli which has a striking piece of work by the UK street artist Phlegm on its corner wall. A Maori Waka and steam punk like submarine emerge out of a fish’s mouth which apparently is a reference to a story involving a Japanese submarine in Otago Harbour.

Now I had started delving into the world of art I couldn’t stop. The Dunedin Public Art Gallery sits on one side of The Octagon and exhibits contemporary modern art by Kiwi artists. It is also home to some more traditional work by renowned European artists such as Monet, Turner and Gainsborough.

Dunedin is rapidly making a name for itself as a fun and dynamic place to visit. Perhaps it is the influence of a large student population or maybe just down to the inherited pioneering and adventurous spirit of its people – whatever the reason it is a city that moves with the times whilst fully embracing it’s past.

Bay of Islands paradise, dolphins and Captain Cook

The Bay of Islands premier holiday spot Paihia is an appealing place with three gorgeous sandy beaches, attractive waterfront accommodation, lively bars and restaurants. It is also the starting point for a vast array of water activities.  With over 144 islands scattered throughout the Bay of Islands not getting out on the water would seem rather criminal. With this in mind I joined one of the popular ‘Hole in the Rock’ cruises which I was told was a must do. As I peered over the front railings of the boat and did my very best titanic impression I was fortunate to spot several little penguins and even a hammerhead shark. These crystal clear turquoise waters teemed with marine life. Being at the front of the boat also had its advantages when we cruised out to Piercy Island and its famous ‘hole’. If the conditions are right the boat ventures right through the very middle of the hole and out to the Pacific Ocean beyond - a surreal experience. Sailing out around the islands we were told some fascinating stories. Robertson Island was where Captain Cook had anchored the Endeavour. My personal highlight was Black Rocks where only the tops are visible from the lava flow left behind about 1.2million years ago. The rocks are actually sheer cliffs which drop down to the sea floor as far as thirty metres below, quite incredible.  The climax of the trip for everyone though was the spotting of several fins surfing through the water as a pod of bottle nosed dolphins raced towards our boat.  They apparently frequent the bay and are spotted regularly. They love to frolic around and swim with the boats and were grandly applauded as they put on quite an acrobatic show.

Aroha Island, beaches, paradise, wildlife and real kiwi

My night was to be spent at Aroha Island Ecological Centre. A causeway separates Aroha from the rest of the mainland and this idyllic setting of mangrove and New Zealand bush is home to numerous Kiwi birdlife. A programme of persistent pest control has eradicated most potential predators and allowed native bird populations to flourish. As I strolled across deserted beaches and transversed the islands walking tracks I was fortunate enough to spot pied oystercatchers, fantails and paradise shell ducks – all endangered birds thriving here. I also experienced the thrill of being frequently dive bombed by an overzealous ‘Tui’, one of my favourite New Zealand birds due to its mischievous nature and enchanting calling song, it can be a little territorial as I discovered to my cost. The causeway is closed at dusk which means anyone staying overnight gets to enjoy their own secluded little island. The accommodation is at a beach side campsite or one of three self-contained cottages. I had planned my own visit for the night time activity as much as the relaxed daylight vibe - for at night here once the darkness descends the locals tend to get a little bit rowdy. Aroha Island is home to a number of rare North Island Brown Kiwi and in such a smallish area tracking them is easy – well not exactly easy as tracking kiwi I have discovered never is – but here you do have a 50% chance of spotting one which I’m told is a pretty good return. Kiwis are night time foragers and being extremely timid they flee at the slightest noise. With my torch in hand (covered in red plastic so as not to damage kiwi eyes)  I headed out into the shadowy bush in an attempt to spot the elusive bird. Patience is a virtue as far as kiwis are concerned and I sat for a long time silently waiting. Finally a scuffle nearby caught my attention and I spun my torch into the depths of the dense undergrowth holding my breath. My kiwi was close by but I just couldn’t get a sighting. Clever camouflage is obviously another trait of this revered and flightless bird.

Pohatu Penguins, restoration and conservation, truly inspiring

‘welcome of the wild side’ Joey exclaimed as we drove high above the headland and down into the valley below. The views were amazing indeed but we were not here for these. Having spent the afternoon hanging out with seals and dolphins the conservationist in me was keen to discover more about the local marine life, across on the remote South East corner of Banks Peninsula was an incredible story. Over in Flea Bay was an example of what can be done with a lot of hard work and determination. Pohatu Penguins is a family run eco tourism encounter created by 30+ years of hard work by a sheep farming family. Dedicated to saving the little white penguins, endemic to Canterbury they have successfully built and maintained the largest colony of little penguins to be found anywhere in Australasia. I met up with their engaging daughter, Joey, to learn more. Joey grew up in Flea Bay and spent days with penguins being rehabilited in her kitchen so she certainly knows a few things about these adorable little guys. We began by covering ourselves in camouflaged capes to help disguise our presence with the penguins. The New Zealand spring time through early summer is the time that the penguins nest and our job that night was to check on a selected group of eggs and chicks to ensure everything appeared good and healthy. Nests are now present all over the large farm with some man made and others penguin created. Apparently the penguins are little battlers and love nothing more than kicking rabbits out of their burrows to claim them for their own! Beachside properties are in much demand and are usually an indication of the fittest and strongest parents thereby the most robust little chicks. The lingering smell of penguin poo is a good sign of a healthy chick and this was certainly present at box one. I could barely contain my excitement as joey opened the box to unveil two very fluffy bundles. At three weeks old they looked to be doing well. As night fell we used binoculars to peer out to sea. Heading home in what is known as rafts – groups of penguins gathered together for safety to await landfall at darkness.  A few braver souls landed early on the rocks below us flopping in ungraceful penguin fashion on to dry land. As darkness descended our time with the penguins came to an end –  a low grumble from a bush told us we had to leave to allow them the security of returning to their nests without any human presence. I was deeply humbled to have spent a short amount of time in their landscape and to have witnessed some inspiring conservation work.

Hanging out with the world's smallest dolphin whilst crusing Akaroa Harbour

Akaroa Wharf is where the local boat tours depart and my next objective was to get out into the harbour on board the Black Cat catamaran. Known as the scenic nature cruise the description was befitting as the views were simply breath taking. Set within the caldera of on extinct volcano the harbour is 27 km in length. Apparently the serene calmness and geology of the harbour confuses some who mistake it for lake. As we cruised out towards the vast Pacific Ocean our skipper Julian, provided us with a continuous interesting and amusing commentary. Joking at one point that anyone who bought the discounted cruise fair needed to disembark at Akaroa Head and walk back to town – a distance I would guess of somewhere near the 27km! Julian pointed out the Onuku Marae situated on the waterfront and famous as being the first Marae on the South Island to sign the Treaty Of Waitangi, New Zealand’s official founding treaty between the Maori Chiefs and the British representatives of Queen Victoria. We were able to spot numerous sea birds including some recently hatched spotted shags that used the ledges of the cliff created by the volcano to nest. Our boat sailed into a giant sea cave with great acoustics that we all roundly tried out. We even learnt that Nikau translates in Maori as ‘no coconut’ in reference to the local palm tree which is the most southern growing – unlike its Pacific counterparts it has no coconuts. As spellbinding as the scenery was nothing could complete with the excitement created by the local marine life. Akaroa Harbour is now a marine reserve and at what point we happily pointed out a white flippered penguin swimming by – this species of penguin are unique to the Banks Peninsula and are a type of the Australasian Little Penguin. New Zealand fur seals were spotted snoozing on rocks and playing in the many safe pools left by the sea. And then we spotted the Hector’s Dolphin – although to be honest I think it might have been a case of them spotting us. Incredibly playful in attitude they soured through the water straight towards out boat keen to check us out. The Hector is endemic to New Zealand’s South Island and are some of the smallest of their kind to be found. They are distinctive in their appearance with their grey bodies, black and white markings and rounded dorsal fins. With their acrobatic display and enthusiastic nature they stole the show – at one point I counted nine hanging out on the bow of the boat.

The small seaside town of Akaroa is the areas main hub. Akaroa means long harbour in Maori and the whole township essentially revolves around this. Back in 1838 Capt. Langlois provisionally purchased this area for the French only to return a couple of years later with 63 fellow emigrants to discover the British had claimed it as their own apparently only seven days earlier. The French though were invited to stay and create their own settlement, their influence is still obvious today. Street lights are French in style, sign posts and street names take you to Paris, with names like Rue. Even the local butchers is known as the boucherie.  

In the evening I was picked up from Akaroa in a rusty old Toyota belonging to Onuku Farm Hostel and taken in this refined luxury down a bumpy end of road track to the far side of the peninsula. From here I leapt on the back of a quad bike with my bag to find my accommodation for the night! A novel way to arrive. The former sheep farm is home to a wide range of accommodation types all with picturesque views. My own night was going to be spent in something called a ‘Stargazer’, essentially a wooden tent with a glass panel as its roof. Wiggling in to your sleeping bag in the confined room is a fair challenge but I was game. I fell asleep to a cloudy sky and no chance of experiencing any star gazing. However, a few hours later I turned over on to my back to the most dazzling sights ever – the whole galaxy seemed to lay before me twinkling and glistening in the complete darkness of the sky. I was awoken the next morning to the delightful call of the bell bird and tui, two of NZ’s most iconic birds and most certainly the most tuneful. Despite not having the greatest of sleeps, but still pretty content I journeyed back to Akaroa.

The Little River Rail Trail follows the route of an old 19th Century railway track from Hornby on the outskirts of Christchurch through to the small settlement of Little River on the Banks Peninsula. Little River was original a sawmill community supplying timber to Christchurch back in the day but is now largely a tourist spot, a great pit stops between the city and the peninsula. Its old railway station is home to the visitor centre. The Little River Rail Trail is a popular mountain bike/walking track that can be completed in various sections of choice along its 49km route. I hopped on my bike at Motukarua (another small settlement) with the aim to cycle at least 2 sections between here and Little River itself. The track at this point is raised slightly as it followed the old railway embankment past Lake Ellesmere, New Zealand largest saltwater lake, Birdlings Flat – a small holiday town with a wild and dramatic rock-strewn beach which is great to take a windswept walk along, across to the smaller but no less impressive Lake Forsyth. As I peddled along I was rewarded with some spectacular views. The upper range of New Zealand’s Southern Alps was clear to see on this bright clear day. The track traversed through wetlands that teamed with bird life – black swans gracefully floated alongside the path and herons, kingfishers perched on bridge posts as crossed. The track in this area is all off road and there are only a few crossing places to navigate. As I reached Little River I was all too ready to reward myself with some much-needed refreshment. The café here was a perfect spot to appreciate a slice of cake in a sunny garden area.

Mount John, Lake Tekapo and the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky reserve

Mount John and Lake Tekapo are home to the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve – the acclaimed largest dark sky reserve on this planet. Staying in the area I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to join up with Earth & Sky on a Mount John Observatory Tour. Living the life of an astronomer of course means working the night shift and as it was New Zealand summer time this meant it was pretty late by the time I clambered up on board the Earth & Sky coach. As we approached the top of Mount John and our driver kindly informed us that he was now switching off his headlights so as not to disturb the astronomers working above I began to wonder how foolhardy I was being! It hadn’t helped that the journey prior to the lights out part had been quite hair-raising with the access road up both steep and narrow with no obvious safety barrier at either side. There wasn’t much to separate any wrong turn with a steep sheer drop down below. Luckily our driver was a professional and after a brief respite had his night vision sorted whilst I in turn gripped tightly onto the hand rail on the seat in front. I don’t think I was alone. We were safely delivered to the top a short while later thankfully and once we had recovered our senses somewhat were split into small groups.  Each group was allocated a guide to lead us on a discovery of the southern skies. Fortunately it was a clear night with great visibility and not too much cloud cover. My eyes gradually adjusted and as I peered upwards I could easily make out the Milky Way and Southern Cross. Our guide pointed out numerous star constellations including the plough which was actually the opposite way around to what a lot of us had previously experienced in the Northern Hemisphere. It soon became obvious as to why the reserve had been chosen as here high above the Mackenzie basin I felt on top of the world – so much above everything else that it felt as though I could reach up and touch the stars. The only unnatural light in the area was way down below at Lake Tekapo, however even there special lighting had been introduced to help minimize any light pollution. The real highlight of the tour was being taken into the white domed telescopic buildings where I was shown a genuinely large and powerful telescope, the type you only really see on television. Our guide lined the telescope up - all done electronically - and allowed me to take a long look through. Suddenly distant glittering clusters of stars and galaxies dazzled in front of my eyes.

Mt Cook Village and the Hooker Valley Track - mountian and glacier exploring

Positioned in the heart of the glacier valley Mount Cook Village is a functional service town with a vast array of accommodation options. What Mount Cook Village may lack in colourful character though it certainly makes up for in location. The scenery here is colossal in proportion, almost as limitless as the mountains of New Zealand’s Southern Alps that tower above. To my naked eye it made everything man-made in this area look mightily insignificant. Even campervans as they crawled along the valley roads appeared as ants streaming across a floor. This was the kind of absorbing scenery that made me want to get out into the great outdoors and so I embarked on the 10km, three-hour return Hooker Valley Track. The well-formed pathway traversed through tussock grassland and around humps and ridges (known as moraine and created over time by glacial rock and debris). Mountains loomed overhead with glaciers tumbling down their sides. Mount Cook National Park has the highest mountain range in New Zealand with nineteen peaks reaching over 3,000 metres above sea level. I encountered alpine lakes created by the ice melt from the glaciers. And throughout the valley the roar of the mighty Hooker River was never far from earshot. I crossed its gushing flow no fewer than three times as purpose-built swing bridges took me back and forth. This was a particularly exhilarating experience on the way back when the wind picked up and howled its way through the valley which made the bridge crossing more of a white-knuckle ride with a tight grip being the order of the day. The track ended at the Hooker Lake which appeared suddenly in front of me as I rounded a corner. Up above was the commanding peak of Mount Cook otherwise known as Aoraki, the largest mountain in New Zealand and instinctively the most recognizable. Hooker Lake was the perfect spot for a brief respite and the taking of the prerequisite photographs before heading back down the track and to the comparable calm of the Mount Cook Village.

Kayak on an ice lake at Tasman Glacier, middle of the South Island

It was a bit of a surreal experience gliding past giant chunks of ice displaced in the middle of an alpine lake. But I supposed that had been my morning so far beginning from the moment I had peeked out of my lodge room window and seen rabbits bounding down the lane. Now just a few hours later I was sat in a kayak gently paddling out across a proglacial lake. Less than 40 years ago Tasman Terminal Lake as it is now known hadn’t even existed. It was created when the Tasman Glacier slowly retreated leaving behind a few small ponds that by 1990 had become the ever-expanding lake found here today. My guide informed me that the water was as pure as the ice that created it but murky in colour due to fine glacial rock deposits. As I looked to the far side of the lake I could see I solid wall of ice – in fact I soon discovered that this was the largest ice structure to be found in all off New Zealand. The Tasman Glacier is about 23 km in length and 2 km in width – a quite literal frozen monster of ice. It paints a far from glamourous setting in terms of picturesque vistas, as is the usual norm in New Zealand, with the rough dark glacial rock fall creating a rubble strewn back-drop, yet there was a sense still of intrigue here, a place of mystery and fascination. The splash of colour in this visual grey glacial wasteland emerged from the blue-whiteness of the huge chunks of ice. This ice, estimated to be about 400 years old, broke away from the apron of the glacier and gradually floated across the lake. All around my kayak as I propelled myself about drifted much smaller fragmented pieces of ice particle, as clear as glass, that I was able to scoop up from out of the water to touch and taste. As I sat in silence contemplating the sheer majesty all around me the only noticeable sound was the ripple of my paddle across the surface of the water - even on a dreary day the scene was incredibly atmospheric. I have certainly never experienced anything quite like it.

Devonport and it's astonishing history, an Auckland suburb worth exploring

Directly across the harbour from central Auckland is Devonport. Devonport is positioned on the end of a peninsula and is the quintessential colonial suburb - all white washed villas with wrap around verandas. Devonport is framed on either side by two extinct volcanos, Mount Victoria and North Head.  Much of Devonport is built on old lava flows that descend from Mount Victoria, ‘The Hill Standing Above’ as per the meaning of its Maori name, Takarunga. Mount Victoria is the highest natural point to be found in Auckland and is situated, very handily, close to the villages main through fare. A brief ferry journey and short walk took me up to the volcano that was once home to a Maori Pa (a traditional fortified settlement). Some reminders of this time are still visible on the peak today. The memorising views across to the city make the climb worthwhile.

Descending along the Mount Victoria lookout path I ventured through the pretty tree lined streets towards Cheltenham Beach. Hidden away on the far side of Devonport this long sandy stretch of coastline is sheltered and peaceful, a perfect spot for a swim on a summer’s day. My objective though was to stroll its full length to join the stairway up to North Head or Maungauika as it is known in Maori. Devonport’s second volcano is now a significant historical site. It was New Zealand’s most important coastal defence post for some 120 years due to its perfect position overlooking the entrance to the harbour with magnificent perspectives across the whole of the Hauraki Gulf.

A self-guided walk took me underground and through a net-work of interlinking tunnels, old barracks and gun encasements. The construction of this underground city began back in the 1870’s due to the perceived ‘Russian scares’ when people became convinced that New Zealand would suffer some sort of Russian attack. Forty prisoners lived on the summit of North Head in 1885 and built many of the tunnels and gun batteries. In World War Two North Head’s summit again became the focal point for Auckland’s defence against possible submarine attack in the harbour. In fact, the New Zealand navy did not fully vacate the site until 1996. It is now open to the public to explore its historic attractions.

What has endured since the Navy days are North Head’s mysteries. Rumours continue to persist of hidden tunnels and unknown objects. A recurring story is about two fully sized passenger aircraft being hidden in the depths of the volcano. No one quite knows why this story started, an urban legend no doubt, and despite numerous archaeological surveys and studies nothing has ever been discovered – not yet anyhow……

Rangitoto Island, Auckland, North Island

Rangitoto is Auckland’s most recent and arguably most impressive volcano emerging in a cacophony of fire and fury from the ocean floor only around six hundred years ago. Over the course of the next two hundred years an island was created that today sits proudly as an iconic feature in the heart of the Hauraki Gulf - the name given to the stunning marine area surrounding Auckland’s Eastern Coastline. Rangitoto is the perfect symmetrical cone shaped volcano featured on many a photograph or image of the city skyline.

I hopped on one of the early morning ferries across to Rangitoto keen to get out and explore as much of the island as possible. From the recently restored wharf at Rangitoto Island I followed the signs to the ‘Summit Track’ - the most popular and direct route up to the volcano’s peak. It took me just over an hour to climb the 3 km route and despite the island appearing as though it is smothered in bush, I came across vast, dark and desolate lava fields. I had been warned prior to my visit that on hot, sunny days the scoria landscape can become scolding to the feet as the heat reflects off the ground, luckily it was still early so my trainers remained unscathed! At 259 metres above sea level Rangitoto’s summit offered me a glorious 360-degree view of the Auckland Skyline and Hauraki Gulf. After a brief respite to absorb the splendour and discover the sights I continued onwards to follow a path around the outside rim of the volcanos crater. Rangitoto’s crater is a large deep space that I presumed would be full of rubble and volcanic debris, I certainly didn’t expect a forest! I peered down over the viewing platform railings to look out over the largest Pohutukawa Forest in the world. Gnarly trunked Pohutukawa trees bloom with crimson flowers in summer months and are therefore considered New Zealand’s adopted native Christmas tree. I discovered that in addition to impressive Pohutukawa, Rangitoto is home to over two hundred different species of native plants and trees all off which are flourishing in its predator free status. Over the last few years Rangitoto and its neighbour Motutapu (which are linked by a man-made causeway constructed during World War Two) have been categorised as protective islands. Essentially this means that they are predator free. All potential pests such as rats, stoats and possums have been successfully eliminated allowing for the restoration of native bush and bird life.

A short stroll back down from the crater summit I came upon the lava caves. Eager for adventure I flicked on my torch light and carefully made my way into the darkness of the caves exploring their hidden depths and discovering twisting tunnels. They were formed when hot lava drained out from inside a solid outer crust leaving a hollow tube. Rangitoto Island is home to seven such caves and luckily some are safe enough to be investigated by us general public. At one point I switched my torch off allowing my eyes to adjust to the total darkness, it was a surreal experience.

My hike continued taking me down another side of Rangitoto and along what is known as the Coastal Track - traversing mangroves that are home to numerous coastal birds. Apparently, these pathways were constructed during the 1920’s when prisoners were subject to hard labour on the island. In order to pay for these works island baches were built as holiday homes for families to visit. Thirty of these remain and are dotted alongside the coastal pathway. Bach 38 located next to the Wharf has recently been restored as a museum.

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