Taiaroa Head, Otago Peninsula, the only place on land to spot Albatross

A short way along the picturesque coastline from The Penguin Place is Taiaroa Head. Home to the world’s only mainland breeding colony for the Northern Royal Albatross. With wingspans of up to 3 metres the albatross are truly the giants of the seabird world. The first observatory opened here in 1967 and visitors now flock from far and wide for the privilege of seeing this mighty bird. I joined one of the guided tours at the Royal Albatross Centre to take a walk up to the glassed observation viewing area. Three nests where within sight and with the help of binoculars I peered across to the distinctive looking fluffy white albatross chick waiting for its parents return. A larger albatross hovered over another nest – I initially thought to protect the chick but was corrected by my guide who advised that this was instead a mischievous juvenile intent on bullying the youngsters whilst their parents were absent. The centre set up a successful Royal cam a couple of years ago on the headland. I was told that people worldwide have tuned in to discover the tenacious plight, adventure and achievement of the little albatross chick. Last year’s chick was named Tumanako and it fledged in September. After spending the next few years out at sea tracking across the Southern Hemisphere it is hoped Tumanako returns to raise a family of its own. I suspect thousands will be eager to hear news.

Face to face with the worlds rarest penguins - Penguin Place Otago Peninsula

Under our watchful gaze Todd shuffled awkwardly up the rugged hillside. Exhausted after a long day fishing out at sea, he had already conquered the lengthy walk across the wide windswept beach. He now faced a scrambled climb through bushland to his nest and hopefully a peaceful evening ahead. He stopped frequently to peer all around him to anxiously check for any potential predator. He appeared quite unaware of our small group a short distance away absorbed by his presence and keenly watching his every move. Our guides were great, constantly checking on Todd’s welfare and urging everyone to respectful silence. We were hurriedly moved along if any disturbance was observed for Todd is a very special little guy. He is one of a frightening low number (and sadly dwindling) of Yellow-eyed Penguins or Hoiho that still exist in New Zealand. Found only on the Eastern Coastline of the South Island these adorable little chaps with their distinctive yellow eye bands are the rarest penguin type in the world.  The Penguin Place at Otago Peninsula is an inspirational spot. They are open to the public for tours which take place usually as the penguins return home for the day which is a few hours before dusk. They help to promote the plight of these endangered little birds with all proceeds from the tours being put towards further research and ongoing penguin care.

The tour is an adventure in itself! I followed my guide through an underground network of camouflaged tunnels which have been elaborately and carefully built to reach deep into the heart of the penguin colony. An ingenious way of enabling people to get close to the penguins without causing them too much disturbance. I followed my guide Julia on a rapid march through the tunnels to the nest of Maggie, the only current resident female who was sat proudly guarding her nest. Maggie is quite a character. She previously ignored bachelor Rodd’s persistent courting ritual, to remain with long time partner Jim – who at 24 is the colonies oldest surviving penguin. However, this season Maggie has jilted Jim in favour of a younger intruder. Matai is from the neighbouring Catlin’s region and has invaded the Otago colony and stolen the girl! Such is the soap opera world of the Yellow-eyed Penguin!



Dunedin, Discover Street Art, Fabulous Cafes and Modern Charm

As I strolled back down through the streets of central Dunedin I allowed my imagination to run wild. I pictured the horse drawn carts tracking up town clip-clopping along the long avenues that all seem to lead towards The Octagon. Purpose built to be the central point of the city The Octagon is a large plaza with pedestrian areas and lively cafes, bars and restaurants. It is easy to get absorbed by Dunedin’s charismatic past, but that is not to ignore the modern city which is a charming, bustling student town with a thriving coffee culture. Strolling around I came across enticing cafes on every corner often situated in distinguished heritage buildings.  With names such as Morning Magpie and The Perc Exchange for example they help to set the hip and modern vibe which the city is seemingly embracing. Street Art is also flourishing. Down alleyways, overlooking carparks ostensibly on every possible blank space or bare wall a contemporary street artist has made their descriptive, interesting and notable mark. Both New Zealand and International artists have been drawn to the city including notable names such as Faith 47 and ROA. ROA is responsible for some captivating aerosol work with one wall covered by a giant Tuatara, a reptile endemic to New Zealand. Keen to embrace its flourishing art profile Dunedin has established its own Street Art Trail which can be followed either on a guided tour with a passionate local or by following the Dunedin Street Art Map which is provided by the local tourist office. As I trail blazed around town following the ninety-minute walk I was able to appreciate not only lots of inspiring art work but also to uncover some of Dunedin’s hidden gems. The walk gave me an excuse to check out narrow laneways and discover ‘wee alley ways’ as they are locally known together with significant land marks that included the ‘First Church of Otago’. I stumbled across some excellent local venues such as Vogel Street Kitchen – a terrific coffee house and deli which has a striking piece of work by the UK street artist Phlegm on its corner wall. A Maori Waka and steam punk like submarine emerge out of a fish’s mouth which apparently is a reference to a story involving a Japanese submarine in Otago Harbour.

Now I had started delving into the world of art I couldn’t stop. The Dunedin Public Art Gallery sits on one side of The Octagon and exhibits contemporary modern art by Kiwi artists. It is also home to some more traditional work by renowned European artists such as Monet, Turner and Gainsborough.

Dunedin is rapidly making a name for itself as a fun and dynamic place to visit. Perhaps it is the influence of a large student population or maybe just down to the inherited pioneering and adventurous spirit of its people – whatever the reason it is a city that moves with the times whilst fully embracing it’s past.

Bay of Islands paradise, dolphins and Captain Cook

The Bay of Islands premier holiday spot Paihia is an appealing place with three gorgeous sandy beaches, attractive waterfront accommodation, lively bars and restaurants. It is also the starting point for a vast array of water activities.  With over 144 islands scattered throughout the Bay of Islands not getting out on the water would seem rather criminal. With this in mind I joined one of the popular ‘Hole in the Rock’ cruises which I was told was a must do. As I peered over the front railings of the boat and did my very best titanic impression I was fortunate to spot several little penguins and even a hammerhead shark. These crystal clear turquoise waters teemed with marine life. Being at the front of the boat also had its advantages when we cruised out to Piercy Island and its famous ‘hole’. If the conditions are right the boat ventures right through the very middle of the hole and out to the Pacific Ocean beyond - a surreal experience. Sailing out around the islands we were told some fascinating stories. Robertson Island was where Captain Cook had anchored the Endeavour. My personal highlight was Black Rocks where only the tops are visible from the lava flow left behind about 1.2million years ago. The rocks are actually sheer cliffs which drop down to the sea floor as far as thirty metres below, quite incredible.  The climax of the trip for everyone though was the spotting of several fins surfing through the water as a pod of bottle nosed dolphins raced towards our boat.  They apparently frequent the bay and are spotted regularly. They love to frolic around and swim with the boats and were grandly applauded as they put on quite an acrobatic show.

Aroha Island, beaches, paradise, wildlife and real kiwi

My night was to be spent at Aroha Island Ecological Centre. A causeway separates Aroha from the rest of the mainland and this idyllic setting of mangrove and New Zealand bush is home to numerous Kiwi birdlife. A programme of persistent pest control has eradicated most potential predators and allowed native bird populations to flourish. As I strolled across deserted beaches and transversed the islands walking tracks I was fortunate enough to spot pied oystercatchers, fantails and paradise shell ducks – all endangered birds thriving here. I also experienced the thrill of being frequently dive bombed by an overzealous ‘Tui’, one of my favourite New Zealand birds due to its mischievous nature and enchanting calling song, it can be a little territorial as I discovered to my cost. The causeway is closed at dusk which means anyone staying overnight gets to enjoy their own secluded little island. The accommodation is at a beach side campsite or one of three self-contained cottages. I had planned my own visit for the night time activity as much as the relaxed daylight vibe - for at night here once the darkness descends the locals tend to get a little bit rowdy. Aroha Island is home to a number of rare North Island Brown Kiwi and in such a smallish area tracking them is easy – well not exactly easy as tracking kiwi I have discovered never is – but here you do have a 50% chance of spotting one which I’m told is a pretty good return. Kiwis are night time foragers and being extremely timid they flee at the slightest noise. With my torch in hand (covered in red plastic so as not to damage kiwi eyes)  I headed out into the shadowy bush in an attempt to spot the elusive bird. Patience is a virtue as far as kiwis are concerned and I sat for a long time silently waiting. Finally a scuffle nearby caught my attention and I spun my torch into the depths of the dense undergrowth holding my breath. My kiwi was close by but I just couldn’t get a sighting. Clever camouflage is obviously another trait of this revered and flightless bird.

Lyttelton, Farmers Markets and trips across to Diamond Harbour

Whilst I am disinclined to use the term ‘bohemian’ to describe a place, it is in all honesty the most appropriate way to define the historic seaside port of Lyttelton. Separated from Christchurch by the sharp jagged rock formations of the imposing ‘Port Hills’ Lyttelton has very much its own identity - a mix of quirky and artistic. It is also home to a vast array of cafes, restaurants and bars – which despite their numbers seem mighty popular and well patronised. The landing place of the first Canterbury settlers’ way back in 1850, Lyttelton was badly damaged in the February 2011 earthquake when a lot of its heritage buildings were lost and destroyed. Now well over five years later repairs are still being carried out, but premises have been rebuilt and areas restored and the town is enjoying life once again in a resolute and gratifying fashion. I timed my visit for a Saturday morning when the Farmers Market was in full swing. London Street, Lyttelton’s main through-fare, thronged with local folk and visitors alike browsing homemade wares and tasty produce. Stalls were piled high with organic breads, home-produced sausages, salamis, wine and chocolate. The bakery store was especially enticing with its mound of cream filled chocolate eclairs! I was grateful I had taken advanced notice and skipped breakfast to enjoy guilt free tastings of pastries, Stewart Island smoked salmon and freshly made organic juices.

A short walk down-hill from London Street and its market place is the Port of Lyttelton. Here I caught the Black Cat Ferry - a service running every half an hour, zipping you speedily across the bay to sleepy Diamond Harbour. At Diamond Harbour there is a small jetty and sheltered sandy beach that offers stunning views back across the narrow stretch of water to Lyttelton. A pleasant stroll up-hill through pleasant memorial gardens brought me to the petite town centre. It’s a great place to spend a peaceful couple of hours.

Lake Tekapo, Mt John and the MacKenzie Basin, don't miss the Church of the Good Shepherd

As I approached Lake Tekapo from the west it was impossible for me to miss Mount John perched high above the Mackenzie Basin. Tekapo is home to another of this region’s iconic locations with yet another impossibly blue lake surrounded by snow laden mountains. Feeling energetic I elected to walk up along the lake shoreline to the Mount John summit track. This provided me the opportunity to wander across to the Church of the Good Shepherd and join the legions of sightseers with cameras at the ready to snap the perfect shot. The Church was built not only as a place of worship but as a lasting memorial to the pioneering Mackenzie families. Its large glass picture window offers the most impressive lake side views which surely must be a distraction for even the most devout worshiper. A short stroll from the Church is the statute to celebrate the hard-working farm dogs of the Mackenzie, without whom farming this area would have been virtually impossible. Hiking along the lakeside pathway I began to climb up through forest which gradually dwindled away leaving only mountain tussock. The baroness of this land allowed me to fully appreciate the 360-degree panoramas on show across the stunning Mackenzie basin. At the top of Mount John, the Astro Café was a welcome spot for refreshment and I indulged myself with a decadent hot chocolate cleverly decorated with a space pattern in its foam – a tribute to the areas dazzling night skies

Mt Cook Village and the Hooker Valley Track - mountian and glacier exploring

Positioned in the heart of the glacier valley Mount Cook Village is a functional service town with a vast array of accommodation options. What Mount Cook Village may lack in colourful character though it certainly makes up for in location. The scenery here is colossal in proportion, almost as limitless as the mountains of New Zealand’s Southern Alps that tower above. To my naked eye it made everything man-made in this area look mightily insignificant. Even campervans as they crawled along the valley roads appeared as ants streaming across a floor. This was the kind of absorbing scenery that made me want to get out into the great outdoors and so I embarked on the 10km, three-hour return Hooker Valley Track. The well-formed pathway traversed through tussock grassland and around humps and ridges (known as moraine and created over time by glacial rock and debris). Mountains loomed overhead with glaciers tumbling down their sides. Mount Cook National Park has the highest mountain range in New Zealand with nineteen peaks reaching over 3,000 metres above sea level. I encountered alpine lakes created by the ice melt from the glaciers. And throughout the valley the roar of the mighty Hooker River was never far from earshot. I crossed its gushing flow no fewer than three times as purpose-built swing bridges took me back and forth. This was a particularly exhilarating experience on the way back when the wind picked up and howled its way through the valley which made the bridge crossing more of a white-knuckle ride with a tight grip being the order of the day. The track ended at the Hooker Lake which appeared suddenly in front of me as I rounded a corner. Up above was the commanding peak of Mount Cook otherwise known as Aoraki, the largest mountain in New Zealand and instinctively the most recognizable. Hooker Lake was the perfect spot for a brief respite and the taking of the prerequisite photographs before heading back down the track and to the comparable calm of the Mount Cook Village.

Devonport and it's astonishing history, an Auckland suburb worth exploring

Directly across the harbour from central Auckland is Devonport. Devonport is positioned on the end of a peninsula and is the quintessential colonial suburb - all white washed villas with wrap around verandas. Devonport is framed on either side by two extinct volcanos, Mount Victoria and North Head.  Much of Devonport is built on old lava flows that descend from Mount Victoria, ‘The Hill Standing Above’ as per the meaning of its Maori name, Takarunga. Mount Victoria is the highest natural point to be found in Auckland and is situated, very handily, close to the villages main through fare. A brief ferry journey and short walk took me up to the volcano that was once home to a Maori Pa (a traditional fortified settlement). Some reminders of this time are still visible on the peak today. The memorising views across to the city make the climb worthwhile.

Descending along the Mount Victoria lookout path I ventured through the pretty tree lined streets towards Cheltenham Beach. Hidden away on the far side of Devonport this long sandy stretch of coastline is sheltered and peaceful, a perfect spot for a swim on a summer’s day. My objective though was to stroll its full length to join the stairway up to North Head or Maungauika as it is known in Maori. Devonport’s second volcano is now a significant historical site. It was New Zealand’s most important coastal defence post for some 120 years due to its perfect position overlooking the entrance to the harbour with magnificent perspectives across the whole of the Hauraki Gulf.

A self-guided walk took me underground and through a net-work of interlinking tunnels, old barracks and gun encasements. The construction of this underground city began back in the 1870’s due to the perceived ‘Russian scares’ when people became convinced that New Zealand would suffer some sort of Russian attack. Forty prisoners lived on the summit of North Head in 1885 and built many of the tunnels and gun batteries. In World War Two North Head’s summit again became the focal point for Auckland’s defence against possible submarine attack in the harbour. In fact, the New Zealand navy did not fully vacate the site until 1996. It is now open to the public to explore its historic attractions.

What has endured since the Navy days are North Head’s mysteries. Rumours continue to persist of hidden tunnels and unknown objects. A recurring story is about two fully sized passenger aircraft being hidden in the depths of the volcano. No one quite knows why this story started, an urban legend no doubt, and despite numerous archaeological surveys and studies nothing has ever been discovered – not yet anyhow……

Rangitoto Island, Auckland, North Island

Rangitoto is Auckland’s most recent and arguably most impressive volcano emerging in a cacophony of fire and fury from the ocean floor only around six hundred years ago. Over the course of the next two hundred years an island was created that today sits proudly as an iconic feature in the heart of the Hauraki Gulf - the name given to the stunning marine area surrounding Auckland’s Eastern Coastline. Rangitoto is the perfect symmetrical cone shaped volcano featured on many a photograph or image of the city skyline.

I hopped on one of the early morning ferries across to Rangitoto keen to get out and explore as much of the island as possible. From the recently restored wharf at Rangitoto Island I followed the signs to the ‘Summit Track’ - the most popular and direct route up to the volcano’s peak. It took me just over an hour to climb the 3 km route and despite the island appearing as though it is smothered in bush, I came across vast, dark and desolate lava fields. I had been warned prior to my visit that on hot, sunny days the scoria landscape can become scolding to the feet as the heat reflects off the ground, luckily it was still early so my trainers remained unscathed! At 259 metres above sea level Rangitoto’s summit offered me a glorious 360-degree view of the Auckland Skyline and Hauraki Gulf. After a brief respite to absorb the splendour and discover the sights I continued onwards to follow a path around the outside rim of the volcanos crater. Rangitoto’s crater is a large deep space that I presumed would be full of rubble and volcanic debris, I certainly didn’t expect a forest! I peered down over the viewing platform railings to look out over the largest Pohutukawa Forest in the world. Gnarly trunked Pohutukawa trees bloom with crimson flowers in summer months and are therefore considered New Zealand’s adopted native Christmas tree. I discovered that in addition to impressive Pohutukawa, Rangitoto is home to over two hundred different species of native plants and trees all off which are flourishing in its predator free status. Over the last few years Rangitoto and its neighbour Motutapu (which are linked by a man-made causeway constructed during World War Two) have been categorised as protective islands. Essentially this means that they are predator free. All potential pests such as rats, stoats and possums have been successfully eliminated allowing for the restoration of native bush and bird life.

A short stroll back down from the crater summit I came upon the lava caves. Eager for adventure I flicked on my torch light and carefully made my way into the darkness of the caves exploring their hidden depths and discovering twisting tunnels. They were formed when hot lava drained out from inside a solid outer crust leaving a hollow tube. Rangitoto Island is home to seven such caves and luckily some are safe enough to be investigated by us general public. At one point I switched my torch off allowing my eyes to adjust to the total darkness, it was a surreal experience.

My hike continued taking me down another side of Rangitoto and along what is known as the Coastal Track - traversing mangroves that are home to numerous coastal birds. Apparently, these pathways were constructed during the 1920’s when prisoners were subject to hard labour on the island. In order to pay for these works island baches were built as holiday homes for families to visit. Thirty of these remain and are dotted alongside the coastal pathway. Bach 38 located next to the Wharf has recently been restored as a museum.

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