Otago Peninsula, Pilots Beach, Little Blue Penguins coming home

The staff at the Royal Albatross Centre recommended I return that evening for a rather special homecoming. Each night at dusk huge numbers of Korora or Little Penguins arrive back at Pilots Beach just beneath Taiaroa Head on the Otago Peninsula. A purpose-built boardwalk allows visitors to experience the noisy and calamitous arrival without distressing or disrupting the penguins. Just as darkness appears to consume the shoreline the penguins begin to congregate into what is known as a raft to make a collective group return to dry land. As I waited silently I spotted dark shapes moving swiftly across the water as the rafts began to reach the shoreline. Loud squawks emerged out from the darkness. Then small dark silver specks started to tumble onto the beach, belly flopping ashore and then clumsily climbing up onto their flippered feet. And so, the penguin march began. It started with a few and then gradually these curious and cute little guys were all around us, scrambling over the rocky beach, meandering along well-worn penguin pathways to the grassy headlands above. Excited yelps cut through the night as penguins were reunited. Some paused for a while directly under my feet on the boardwalk. Others comically shuffled up a pathway to return shortly afterwards obviously having taken a wrong turn in their eagerness to arrive home. I checked with my guide who elatedly told me that over one hundred and fifty had returned that night, a thrilling result as numbers continue to increase following the protective measures put in place.

Face to face with the worlds rarest penguins - Penguin Place Otago Peninsula

Under our watchful gaze Todd shuffled awkwardly up the rugged hillside. Exhausted after a long day fishing out at sea, he had already conquered the lengthy walk across the wide windswept beach. He now faced a scrambled climb through bushland to his nest and hopefully a peaceful evening ahead. He stopped frequently to peer all around him to anxiously check for any potential predator. He appeared quite unaware of our small group a short distance away absorbed by his presence and keenly watching his every move. Our guides were great, constantly checking on Todd’s welfare and urging everyone to respectful silence. We were hurriedly moved along if any disturbance was observed for Todd is a very special little guy. He is one of a frightening low number (and sadly dwindling) of Yellow-eyed Penguins or Hoiho that still exist in New Zealand. Found only on the Eastern Coastline of the South Island these adorable little chaps with their distinctive yellow eye bands are the rarest penguin type in the world.  The Penguin Place at Otago Peninsula is an inspirational spot. They are open to the public for tours which take place usually as the penguins return home for the day which is a few hours before dusk. They help to promote the plight of these endangered little birds with all proceeds from the tours being put towards further research and ongoing penguin care.

The tour is an adventure in itself! I followed my guide through an underground network of camouflaged tunnels which have been elaborately and carefully built to reach deep into the heart of the penguin colony. An ingenious way of enabling people to get close to the penguins without causing them too much disturbance. I followed my guide Julia on a rapid march through the tunnels to the nest of Maggie, the only current resident female who was sat proudly guarding her nest. Maggie is quite a character. She previously ignored bachelor Rodd’s persistent courting ritual, to remain with long time partner Jim – who at 24 is the colonies oldest surviving penguin. However, this season Maggie has jilted Jim in favour of a younger intruder. Matai is from the neighbouring Catlin’s region and has invaded the Otago colony and stolen the girl! Such is the soap opera world of the Yellow-eyed Penguin!



Waitangi, New Zealand's birth place and Maori legend

Waitangi Visitor Centre and Treaty House is a place hugely symbolic as it is quintessentially the birth place of the modern New Zealand.  It was on these grounds, on 6th February 1840, that the Treaty of Waitangi was signed by the Queens representative William Hobson and over forty North Island Maori Chiefs. It was and still is shrouded in controversy as two versions were actually signed – one in English and one in Maori – and they were each understood to mean different things.  Despite this the Treaty of Waitangi was New Zealand’s founding document and is still widely referred to even today. Indeed the 6th February remains a national holiday. Being a bit of an historian I found exploring Waitangi fascinating. There is nothing really to compare with actually being on the spot where history was made. It is a place of particular significance to Maori and the museum here focuses on their fascinating and captivating story. Equally impressive is the huge Waka (Maori War canoe) that is displayed at the grounds. Thirty five metres in length makes it the largest in the world and it was constructed from two giant Kauri tree. Its takes 80 warriors to paddle and it can be seen on out the water on Waitangi day each year.

Russell, 'hell hole of the pacific' it certainly isn't!

Looking to discover a little of New Zealand’s history with a visit to its first capital city. Russell was once been described as the ‘hell hole of the pacific’ and I therefore wasn’t too sure what to expect. It certainly wasn’t the sedate and peaceful little town I encountered. Back in the 1830’s and known then as Kororareka it was the outpost for fleeing British convicts, whalers, outlaws and sailors shamed for their drunkenness and debauchery. This savage behaviour led to the arrival of European missionaries who went on to build the towns two oldest surviving buildings, Pompallier Mission which was named after Bishop Jean Baptiste Pompallier and the oldest standing church in New Zealand named Christ Church. A tour of Pompallier Mission allowed me access to the former print works that I discovered is still used to this day to produce handmade books.  When it was built in 1842 it produced dozens of Roman Catholic titles and over a prosperous period of eight years it also printed some of the first books available in the Maori language.  A short stroll from Pompallier is Christ Church which dates back to 1836. Its walls still bear the scars of bullet holes from muscat and cannonball - a legacy left by the Maori and British sieges that dominated the township during 1845. The sieges central character is Hone Heke a name synominous with these parts.  He was Maori Chief at the time and felt despondent when the financial benefits from the Treaty of Waitangi failed to materialise. In his anger he took to cutting down the Union Jack that had been raised on Flagstaff Hill overlooking Russell.  Hone Heke succeeded in cutting down the flag no fewer than four times in the space of a year causing enough provocation to start what was proclaimed the first New Zealand war. Today a flag is still raised on the hillside but only on a select twelve days of the year, one of them being the anniversary of Hone Heke’s death.

Aroha Island, beaches, paradise, wildlife and real kiwi

My night was to be spent at Aroha Island Ecological Centre. A causeway separates Aroha from the rest of the mainland and this idyllic setting of mangrove and New Zealand bush is home to numerous Kiwi birdlife. A programme of persistent pest control has eradicated most potential predators and allowed native bird populations to flourish. As I strolled across deserted beaches and transversed the islands walking tracks I was fortunate enough to spot pied oystercatchers, fantails and paradise shell ducks – all endangered birds thriving here. I also experienced the thrill of being frequently dive bombed by an overzealous ‘Tui’, one of my favourite New Zealand birds due to its mischievous nature and enchanting calling song, it can be a little territorial as I discovered to my cost. The causeway is closed at dusk which means anyone staying overnight gets to enjoy their own secluded little island. The accommodation is at a beach side campsite or one of three self-contained cottages. I had planned my own visit for the night time activity as much as the relaxed daylight vibe - for at night here once the darkness descends the locals tend to get a little bit rowdy. Aroha Island is home to a number of rare North Island Brown Kiwi and in such a smallish area tracking them is easy – well not exactly easy as tracking kiwi I have discovered never is – but here you do have a 50% chance of spotting one which I’m told is a pretty good return. Kiwis are night time foragers and being extremely timid they flee at the slightest noise. With my torch in hand (covered in red plastic so as not to damage kiwi eyes)  I headed out into the shadowy bush in an attempt to spot the elusive bird. Patience is a virtue as far as kiwis are concerned and I sat for a long time silently waiting. Finally a scuffle nearby caught my attention and I spun my torch into the depths of the dense undergrowth holding my breath. My kiwi was close by but I just couldn’t get a sighting. Clever camouflage is obviously another trait of this revered and flightless bird.

Top of the North, Cape Reinga, Mystery and Legend, the meeting of two oceans

There is a sense of mystery about Cape Reinga something a touch unique and unexplainable. It’s not quite the very top of the North Island of New Zealand as that claim is reserved for Surville Cliffs at North Cape - it is however the biggest drawcard for visitors to this remote and isolated coastline. The day I visited a haze lingered out across the headland and the wind raged mercilessly in powerful gusts. This did not do anything though to distract from the exquisite beauty of the weathered scenery. The rolling hills and vast sand dunes flowed downwards to the untouched beaches beneath. At Cape Reinga two oceans majestically collide as the Pacific and Tasman meet in a monstrous roar of wave and foam.  As I made my way down the meandering pathway I spotted a gnarly old Pohutukawa tree. Precariously perched on jutting rock overhanging the sea it was somehow clinging to life on this weather beaten cliffside. Maori legend tells that this is the point at which the spirits of the dead begin their final journey into the underworld to return to their ancestral homeland, Hawaiki. Their spirits leaping down off the tree into the depths of the unforgiving ocean below.

Up above on the headland stood Cape Reinga Lighthouse built back in 1941. It still provides a continuous beaming beacon of light as warning to any passing ship. Not far from the lighthouse was one of the most photographed sign-posts in New Zealand. Yellow pointed arrows indicate the direction of the South Pole in 3,840 miles and London 9,735 miles. Never mind London, I sensed I was a long way from just about anywhere. With the exception of the lighthouse and signpost the only other man made creations within a considerable distance were the car park and toilet/information block.  There was nothing else but endless ocean and resplendent scenery and I could truly believe I was at the end of this world, a sacred place where it was indeed possible that spirits could leap.

Devonport and it's astonishing history, an Auckland suburb worth exploring

Directly across the harbour from central Auckland is Devonport. Devonport is positioned on the end of a peninsula and is the quintessential colonial suburb - all white washed villas with wrap around verandas. Devonport is framed on either side by two extinct volcanos, Mount Victoria and North Head.  Much of Devonport is built on old lava flows that descend from Mount Victoria, ‘The Hill Standing Above’ as per the meaning of its Maori name, Takarunga. Mount Victoria is the highest natural point to be found in Auckland and is situated, very handily, close to the villages main through fare. A brief ferry journey and short walk took me up to the volcano that was once home to a Maori Pa (a traditional fortified settlement). Some reminders of this time are still visible on the peak today. The memorising views across to the city make the climb worthwhile.

Descending along the Mount Victoria lookout path I ventured through the pretty tree lined streets towards Cheltenham Beach. Hidden away on the far side of Devonport this long sandy stretch of coastline is sheltered and peaceful, a perfect spot for a swim on a summer’s day. My objective though was to stroll its full length to join the stairway up to North Head or Maungauika as it is known in Maori. Devonport’s second volcano is now a significant historical site. It was New Zealand’s most important coastal defence post for some 120 years due to its perfect position overlooking the entrance to the harbour with magnificent perspectives across the whole of the Hauraki Gulf.

A self-guided walk took me underground and through a net-work of interlinking tunnels, old barracks and gun encasements. The construction of this underground city began back in the 1870’s due to the perceived ‘Russian scares’ when people became convinced that New Zealand would suffer some sort of Russian attack. Forty prisoners lived on the summit of North Head in 1885 and built many of the tunnels and gun batteries. In World War Two North Head’s summit again became the focal point for Auckland’s defence against possible submarine attack in the harbour. In fact, the New Zealand navy did not fully vacate the site until 1996. It is now open to the public to explore its historic attractions.

What has endured since the Navy days are North Head’s mysteries. Rumours continue to persist of hidden tunnels and unknown objects. A recurring story is about two fully sized passenger aircraft being hidden in the depths of the volcano. No one quite knows why this story started, an urban legend no doubt, and despite numerous archaeological surveys and studies nothing has ever been discovered – not yet anyhow……