Hanging out with the world's smallest dolphin whilst crusing Akaroa Harbour

Akaroa Wharf is where the local boat tours depart and my next objective was to get out into the harbour on board the Black Cat catamaran. Known as the scenic nature cruise the description was befitting as the views were simply breath taking. Set within the caldera of on extinct volcano the harbour is 27 km in length. Apparently the serene calmness and geology of the harbour confuses some who mistake it for lake. As we cruised out towards the vast Pacific Ocean our skipper Julian, provided us with a continuous interesting and amusing commentary. Joking at one point that anyone who bought the discounted cruise fair needed to disembark at Akaroa Head and walk back to town – a distance I would guess of somewhere near the 27km! Julian pointed out the Onuku Marae situated on the waterfront and famous as being the first Marae on the South Island to sign the Treaty Of Waitangi, New Zealand’s official founding treaty between the Maori Chiefs and the British representatives of Queen Victoria. We were able to spot numerous sea birds including some recently hatched spotted shags that used the ledges of the cliff created by the volcano to nest. Our boat sailed into a giant sea cave with great acoustics that we all roundly tried out. We even learnt that Nikau translates in Maori as ‘no coconut’ in reference to the local palm tree which is the most southern growing – unlike its Pacific counterparts it has no coconuts. As spellbinding as the scenery was nothing could complete with the excitement created by the local marine life. Akaroa Harbour is now a marine reserve and at what point we happily pointed out a white flippered penguin swimming by – this species of penguin are unique to the Banks Peninsula and are a type of the Australasian Little Penguin. New Zealand fur seals were spotted snoozing on rocks and playing in the many safe pools left by the sea. And then we spotted the Hector’s Dolphin – although to be honest I think it might have been a case of them spotting us. Incredibly playful in attitude they soured through the water straight towards out boat keen to check us out. The Hector is endemic to New Zealand’s South Island and are some of the smallest of their kind to be found. They are distinctive in their appearance with their grey bodies, black and white markings and rounded dorsal fins. With their acrobatic display and enthusiastic nature they stole the show – at one point I counted nine hanging out on the bow of the boat.

Lyttelton, Farmers Markets and trips across to Diamond Harbour

Whilst I am disinclined to use the term ‘bohemian’ to describe a place, it is in all honesty the most appropriate way to define the historic seaside port of Lyttelton. Separated from Christchurch by the sharp jagged rock formations of the imposing ‘Port Hills’ Lyttelton has very much its own identity - a mix of quirky and artistic. It is also home to a vast array of cafes, restaurants and bars – which despite their numbers seem mighty popular and well patronised. The landing place of the first Canterbury settlers’ way back in 1850, Lyttelton was badly damaged in the February 2011 earthquake when a lot of its heritage buildings were lost and destroyed. Now well over five years later repairs are still being carried out, but premises have been rebuilt and areas restored and the town is enjoying life once again in a resolute and gratifying fashion. I timed my visit for a Saturday morning when the Farmers Market was in full swing. London Street, Lyttelton’s main through-fare, thronged with local folk and visitors alike browsing homemade wares and tasty produce. Stalls were piled high with organic breads, home-produced sausages, salamis, wine and chocolate. The bakery store was especially enticing with its mound of cream filled chocolate eclairs! I was grateful I had taken advanced notice and skipped breakfast to enjoy guilt free tastings of pastries, Stewart Island smoked salmon and freshly made organic juices.

A short walk down-hill from London Street and its market place is the Port of Lyttelton. Here I caught the Black Cat Ferry - a service running every half an hour, zipping you speedily across the bay to sleepy Diamond Harbour. At Diamond Harbour there is a small jetty and sheltered sandy beach that offers stunning views back across the narrow stretch of water to Lyttelton. A pleasant stroll up-hill through pleasant memorial gardens brought me to the petite town centre. It’s a great place to spend a peaceful couple of hours.