Seabirds galore on an Albatross Encounter Tour

A morning Albatross Encounter tour awaited and I eagerly met up with skipper Gary to head out on the hunt for the mightiest sea bird of them all. Our boat was small and open-sided which meant a perfect view was to be had on this gloriously sunny day. Gary explained that one of the best starting points was to seek out the local fishing boats as sea birds naturally pursue these chaps hoping for some of their scraps. It didn’t take very long to spot some activity up ahead and our little boat surfed and jumped the pacific waves rapidly to reach it. Almost immediately we began being circled by some rare and exciting sea birds – Mollymawks, Westland Petrels (who I personally thought had handsome faces), and boisterous Northern Giant Petrels who happily scrapped with each other right by our boat as they fought over the chunk of ham Gary had tossed into the ocean. After a short while and a lot of happy photo snaps later we headed off again. This time Gary told us we were going further out to sea all the way to the edge of the Kaikoura Canyon. As the engine stopped and we bobbed and swayed about it was mentioned that the sea floor beneath us was at least 1km deep! Our eyes were thankfully more focused on what was happening overhead. We all silently waited as more and more birds began to appear. Gary pointed several specific ones out for our attention – the Hutton’s Shearwater and Buller’s Shearwater, a Wandering Gibson’s Albatross and a New Zealand White-Capped Albatross. An awesome spectacle was on display but the show stopper and the bird we all instantly recognized with a collective gasp was the Southern Royal Albatross. It soared across in front of the boat, a very close distance above our heads! For a bird with such a large wingspan (about three metres) it was wondrously graceful. It felt awfully surreal drifting about out on the ocean with the only noise being a raucous squeal or flap of oversized wings. Gary informed us that many of the Albatross we were seeing nest down in the Campbell Islands, 700km south of New Zealand’s South Island. Several of these Albatross have been tracked using satellite transmitters which have showed them capable of travelling up to 1,000km per day!!  Despite observing all these astounding over-sized seabirds my own personal favourite was the little Fluttering Shearwater – a tiny guy by comparison. They fly just above the water with a series of rapid wing beats – hence their endearing name.

Swimming with the fur seals, in Kaikoura

Seal Swim Kaikoura afforded me the fantastic opportunity of mixing it up with the playful New Zealand fur seals. First though I needed to get dressed and geared-up for such an occasion, so I headed into the changing rooms at the back of their office in Kaikoura’s main street.  Decked out in a snug fitting buoyant wet suit complete with snorkel and mask I was all set to trickily wade my way over to the distinctive yellow Seal Swim Bus. During our short journey our enthusiastic crew told us all about the seals and how the location chosen to swim in changed daily dependent on the clarity of the water and playfulness of the seals. I was reminded that any interaction was at their discretion and it was crucial to remember that this was a wild encounter. Luckily New Zealand fur seals are a naturally curious bunch and as we approached in the Seal Swim yellow zodiac boat – yes there is a lot of yellow going on - the younger pups were soon inquisitive, peering down at us eager to discover what these odd things were! Impatient to get in the water I donned my face mask, set up my snorkel and gently guided myself over the edge of the boat. The sea water instantly felt on the cold side – it was the Pacific Ocean after all – and the waves a little choppy, but this soon mattered not one iota as I began to see movement around me in the water. Clambering about on solid ground they were a clumsy bunch, but in the water, it was a different matter entirely as they twisted, turned, spun and weaved, gliding through the water uninhibited. All the time I got the impression though that they were still being mischievously inquisitive.  I kicked against the tide putting my head down just in time to see a seal swim right up to my mask and peer direct at me. For a few precious seconds I literally was nose to nose with a fur seal! I struggled to think of an adequate word to help describe this amazing close-up encounter – perhaps honoured.

Spotting whales over Kaikoura

‘This whale is going to dive any second now, have your cameras at the ready’ our Pilot, Edward, shouted back from the cockpit of the small aircraft as we flew repeated circles around a magnificent sperm whale clearly visible just metres below in the clear teal waters of the Kaikoura sea. The ‘Wings Over Whales’ plane was set up perfectly to give every one of us seven passengers a perfect close-up view of any activity happening below. Sperm whales are resident all year round in Kaikoura as they feed off the ample quantities of squid that are present in the deep depths of the Kaikoura Canyon - a colossal underwater mountain range which begins just a short distance out from the shore line.

My experience began with a presentation about Kaikoura and the sperm whales followed by a concise but thorough safety briefing. Every flight appears to be timed to try to coincide with when they understand a whale may breach the surface – as each whale only spends roughly about ten minutes taking in air before descending vertically deep down into the dark depths below. The take-off along the grass runway was an experience in itself - before I even began to take in the majestic view out over the coastline.  It was the whales though that I really wanted to see, and I soon felt a rush of excitement throughout the plane as one was suddenly sighted. At up to eighteen metres in length these are true giants of the sea. From the air I was able to fully appreciate their substantial size and scale, from head to tail literally!

After experiencing such a buzz from the air, I figured that now I needed to get out in the water itself to encounter on a closer basis some of this area’s incredible marine life. You see the resident sperm whales are just the start, also present are huge pods of dusky dolphins, large breeding colonies of New Zealand Fur Seals and a staggering array of rare and unique seabirds.

Otago Peninsula, Pilots Beach, Little Blue Penguins coming home

The staff at the Royal Albatross Centre recommended I return that evening for a rather special homecoming. Each night at dusk huge numbers of Korora or Little Penguins arrive back at Pilots Beach just beneath Taiaroa Head on the Otago Peninsula. A purpose-built boardwalk allows visitors to experience the noisy and calamitous arrival without distressing or disrupting the penguins. Just as darkness appears to consume the shoreline the penguins begin to congregate into what is known as a raft to make a collective group return to dry land. As I waited silently I spotted dark shapes moving swiftly across the water as the rafts began to reach the shoreline. Loud squawks emerged out from the darkness. Then small dark silver specks started to tumble onto the beach, belly flopping ashore and then clumsily climbing up onto their flippered feet. And so, the penguin march began. It started with a few and then gradually these curious and cute little guys were all around us, scrambling over the rocky beach, meandering along well-worn penguin pathways to the grassy headlands above. Excited yelps cut through the night as penguins were reunited. Some paused for a while directly under my feet on the boardwalk. Others comically shuffled up a pathway to return shortly afterwards obviously having taken a wrong turn in their eagerness to arrive home. I checked with my guide who elatedly told me that over one hundred and fifty had returned that night, a thrilling result as numbers continue to increase following the protective measures put in place.

Taiaroa Head, Otago Peninsula, the only place on land to spot Albatross

A short way along the picturesque coastline from The Penguin Place is Taiaroa Head. Home to the world’s only mainland breeding colony for the Northern Royal Albatross. With wingspans of up to 3 metres the albatross are truly the giants of the seabird world. The first observatory opened here in 1967 and visitors now flock from far and wide for the privilege of seeing this mighty bird. I joined one of the guided tours at the Royal Albatross Centre to take a walk up to the glassed observation viewing area. Three nests where within sight and with the help of binoculars I peered across to the distinctive looking fluffy white albatross chick waiting for its parents return. A larger albatross hovered over another nest – I initially thought to protect the chick but was corrected by my guide who advised that this was instead a mischievous juvenile intent on bullying the youngsters whilst their parents were absent. The centre set up a successful Royal cam a couple of years ago on the headland. I was told that people worldwide have tuned in to discover the tenacious plight, adventure and achievement of the little albatross chick. Last year’s chick was named Tumanako and it fledged in September. After spending the next few years out at sea tracking across the Southern Hemisphere it is hoped Tumanako returns to raise a family of its own. I suspect thousands will be eager to hear news.

Face to face with the worlds rarest penguins - Penguin Place Otago Peninsula

Under our watchful gaze Todd shuffled awkwardly up the rugged hillside. Exhausted after a long day fishing out at sea, he had already conquered the lengthy walk across the wide windswept beach. He now faced a scrambled climb through bushland to his nest and hopefully a peaceful evening ahead. He stopped frequently to peer all around him to anxiously check for any potential predator. He appeared quite unaware of our small group a short distance away absorbed by his presence and keenly watching his every move. Our guides were great, constantly checking on Todd’s welfare and urging everyone to respectful silence. We were hurriedly moved along if any disturbance was observed for Todd is a very special little guy. He is one of a frightening low number (and sadly dwindling) of Yellow-eyed Penguins or Hoiho that still exist in New Zealand. Found only on the Eastern Coastline of the South Island these adorable little chaps with their distinctive yellow eye bands are the rarest penguin type in the world.  The Penguin Place at Otago Peninsula is an inspirational spot. They are open to the public for tours which take place usually as the penguins return home for the day which is a few hours before dusk. They help to promote the plight of these endangered little birds with all proceeds from the tours being put towards further research and ongoing penguin care.

The tour is an adventure in itself! I followed my guide through an underground network of camouflaged tunnels which have been elaborately and carefully built to reach deep into the heart of the penguin colony. An ingenious way of enabling people to get close to the penguins without causing them too much disturbance. I followed my guide Julia on a rapid march through the tunnels to the nest of Maggie, the only current resident female who was sat proudly guarding her nest. Maggie is quite a character. She previously ignored bachelor Rodd’s persistent courting ritual, to remain with long time partner Jim – who at 24 is the colonies oldest surviving penguin. However, this season Maggie has jilted Jim in favour of a younger intruder. Matai is from the neighbouring Catlin’s region and has invaded the Otago colony and stolen the girl! Such is the soap opera world of the Yellow-eyed Penguin!



Bay of Islands paradise, dolphins and Captain Cook

The Bay of Islands premier holiday spot Paihia is an appealing place with three gorgeous sandy beaches, attractive waterfront accommodation, lively bars and restaurants. It is also the starting point for a vast array of water activities.  With over 144 islands scattered throughout the Bay of Islands not getting out on the water would seem rather criminal. With this in mind I joined one of the popular ‘Hole in the Rock’ cruises which I was told was a must do. As I peered over the front railings of the boat and did my very best titanic impression I was fortunate to spot several little penguins and even a hammerhead shark. These crystal clear turquoise waters teemed with marine life. Being at the front of the boat also had its advantages when we cruised out to Piercy Island and its famous ‘hole’. If the conditions are right the boat ventures right through the very middle of the hole and out to the Pacific Ocean beyond - a surreal experience. Sailing out around the islands we were told some fascinating stories. Robertson Island was where Captain Cook had anchored the Endeavour. My personal highlight was Black Rocks where only the tops are visible from the lava flow left behind about 1.2million years ago. The rocks are actually sheer cliffs which drop down to the sea floor as far as thirty metres below, quite incredible.  The climax of the trip for everyone though was the spotting of several fins surfing through the water as a pod of bottle nosed dolphins raced towards our boat.  They apparently frequent the bay and are spotted regularly. They love to frolic around and swim with the boats and were grandly applauded as they put on quite an acrobatic show.

Aroha Island, beaches, paradise, wildlife and real kiwi

My night was to be spent at Aroha Island Ecological Centre. A causeway separates Aroha from the rest of the mainland and this idyllic setting of mangrove and New Zealand bush is home to numerous Kiwi birdlife. A programme of persistent pest control has eradicated most potential predators and allowed native bird populations to flourish. As I strolled across deserted beaches and transversed the islands walking tracks I was fortunate enough to spot pied oystercatchers, fantails and paradise shell ducks – all endangered birds thriving here. I also experienced the thrill of being frequently dive bombed by an overzealous ‘Tui’, one of my favourite New Zealand birds due to its mischievous nature and enchanting calling song, it can be a little territorial as I discovered to my cost. The causeway is closed at dusk which means anyone staying overnight gets to enjoy their own secluded little island. The accommodation is at a beach side campsite or one of three self-contained cottages. I had planned my own visit for the night time activity as much as the relaxed daylight vibe - for at night here once the darkness descends the locals tend to get a little bit rowdy. Aroha Island is home to a number of rare North Island Brown Kiwi and in such a smallish area tracking them is easy – well not exactly easy as tracking kiwi I have discovered never is – but here you do have a 50% chance of spotting one which I’m told is a pretty good return. Kiwis are night time foragers and being extremely timid they flee at the slightest noise. With my torch in hand (covered in red plastic so as not to damage kiwi eyes)  I headed out into the shadowy bush in an attempt to spot the elusive bird. Patience is a virtue as far as kiwis are concerned and I sat for a long time silently waiting. Finally a scuffle nearby caught my attention and I spun my torch into the depths of the dense undergrowth holding my breath. My kiwi was close by but I just couldn’t get a sighting. Clever camouflage is obviously another trait of this revered and flightless bird.

Pohatu Penguins, restoration and conservation, truly inspiring

‘welcome of the wild side’ Joey exclaimed as we drove high above the headland and down into the valley below. The views were amazing indeed but we were not here for these. Having spent the afternoon hanging out with seals and dolphins the conservationist in me was keen to discover more about the local marine life, across on the remote South East corner of Banks Peninsula was an incredible story. Over in Flea Bay was an example of what can be done with a lot of hard work and determination. Pohatu Penguins is a family run eco tourism encounter created by 30+ years of hard work by a sheep farming family. Dedicated to saving the little white penguins, endemic to Canterbury they have successfully built and maintained the largest colony of little penguins to be found anywhere in Australasia. I met up with their engaging daughter, Joey, to learn more. Joey grew up in Flea Bay and spent days with penguins being rehabilited in her kitchen so she certainly knows a few things about these adorable little guys. We began by covering ourselves in camouflaged capes to help disguise our presence with the penguins. The New Zealand spring time through early summer is the time that the penguins nest and our job that night was to check on a selected group of eggs and chicks to ensure everything appeared good and healthy. Nests are now present all over the large farm with some man made and others penguin created. Apparently the penguins are little battlers and love nothing more than kicking rabbits out of their burrows to claim them for their own! Beachside properties are in much demand and are usually an indication of the fittest and strongest parents thereby the most robust little chicks. The lingering smell of penguin poo is a good sign of a healthy chick and this was certainly present at box one. I could barely contain my excitement as joey opened the box to unveil two very fluffy bundles. At three weeks old they looked to be doing well. As night fell we used binoculars to peer out to sea. Heading home in what is known as rafts – groups of penguins gathered together for safety to await landfall at darkness.  A few braver souls landed early on the rocks below us flopping in ungraceful penguin fashion on to dry land. As darkness descended our time with the penguins came to an end –  a low grumble from a bush told us we had to leave to allow them the security of returning to their nests without any human presence. I was deeply humbled to have spent a short amount of time in their landscape and to have witnessed some inspiring conservation work.

Hanging out with the world's smallest dolphin whilst crusing Akaroa Harbour

Akaroa Wharf is where the local boat tours depart and my next objective was to get out into the harbour on board the Black Cat catamaran. Known as the scenic nature cruise the description was befitting as the views were simply breath taking. Set within the caldera of on extinct volcano the harbour is 27 km in length. Apparently the serene calmness and geology of the harbour confuses some who mistake it for lake. As we cruised out towards the vast Pacific Ocean our skipper Julian, provided us with a continuous interesting and amusing commentary. Joking at one point that anyone who bought the discounted cruise fair needed to disembark at Akaroa Head and walk back to town – a distance I would guess of somewhere near the 27km! Julian pointed out the Onuku Marae situated on the waterfront and famous as being the first Marae on the South Island to sign the Treaty Of Waitangi, New Zealand’s official founding treaty between the Maori Chiefs and the British representatives of Queen Victoria. We were able to spot numerous sea birds including some recently hatched spotted shags that used the ledges of the cliff created by the volcano to nest. Our boat sailed into a giant sea cave with great acoustics that we all roundly tried out. We even learnt that Nikau translates in Maori as ‘no coconut’ in reference to the local palm tree which is the most southern growing – unlike its Pacific counterparts it has no coconuts. As spellbinding as the scenery was nothing could complete with the excitement created by the local marine life. Akaroa Harbour is now a marine reserve and at what point we happily pointed out a white flippered penguin swimming by – this species of penguin are unique to the Banks Peninsula and are a type of the Australasian Little Penguin. New Zealand fur seals were spotted snoozing on rocks and playing in the many safe pools left by the sea. And then we spotted the Hector’s Dolphin – although to be honest I think it might have been a case of them spotting us. Incredibly playful in attitude they soured through the water straight towards out boat keen to check us out. The Hector is endemic to New Zealand’s South Island and are some of the smallest of their kind to be found. They are distinctive in their appearance with their grey bodies, black and white markings and rounded dorsal fins. With their acrobatic display and enthusiastic nature they stole the show – at one point I counted nine hanging out on the bow of the boat.

The small seaside town of Akaroa is the areas main hub. Akaroa means long harbour in Maori and the whole township essentially revolves around this. Back in 1838 Capt. Langlois provisionally purchased this area for the French only to return a couple of years later with 63 fellow emigrants to discover the British had claimed it as their own apparently only seven days earlier. The French though were invited to stay and create their own settlement, their influence is still obvious today. Street lights are French in style, sign posts and street names take you to Paris, with names like Rue. Even the local butchers is known as the boucherie.  

In the evening I was picked up from Akaroa in a rusty old Toyota belonging to Onuku Farm Hostel and taken in this refined luxury down a bumpy end of road track to the far side of the peninsula. From here I leapt on the back of a quad bike with my bag to find my accommodation for the night! A novel way to arrive. The former sheep farm is home to a wide range of accommodation types all with picturesque views. My own night was going to be spent in something called a ‘Stargazer’, essentially a wooden tent with a glass panel as its roof. Wiggling in to your sleeping bag in the confined room is a fair challenge but I was game. I fell asleep to a cloudy sky and no chance of experiencing any star gazing. However, a few hours later I turned over on to my back to the most dazzling sights ever – the whole galaxy seemed to lay before me twinkling and glistening in the complete darkness of the sky. I was awoken the next morning to the delightful call of the bell bird and tui, two of NZ’s most iconic birds and most certainly the most tuneful. Despite not having the greatest of sleeps, but still pretty content I journeyed back to Akaroa.