Bay of Islands paradise, dolphins and Captain Cook

The Bay of Islands premier holiday spot Paihia is an appealing place with three gorgeous sandy beaches, attractive waterfront accommodation, lively bars and restaurants. It is also the starting point for a vast array of water activities.  With over 144 islands scattered throughout the Bay of Islands not getting out on the water would seem rather criminal. With this in mind I joined one of the popular ‘Hole in the Rock’ cruises which I was told was a must do. As I peered over the front railings of the boat and did my very best titanic impression I was fortunate to spot several little penguins and even a hammerhead shark. These crystal clear turquoise waters teemed with marine life. Being at the front of the boat also had its advantages when we cruised out to Piercy Island and its famous ‘hole’. If the conditions are right the boat ventures right through the very middle of the hole and out to the Pacific Ocean beyond - a surreal experience. Sailing out around the islands we were told some fascinating stories. Robertson Island was where Captain Cook had anchored the Endeavour. My personal highlight was Black Rocks where only the tops are visible from the lava flow left behind about 1.2million years ago. The rocks are actually sheer cliffs which drop down to the sea floor as far as thirty metres below, quite incredible.  The climax of the trip for everyone though was the spotting of several fins surfing through the water as a pod of bottle nosed dolphins raced towards our boat.  They apparently frequent the bay and are spotted regularly. They love to frolic around and swim with the boats and were grandly applauded as they put on quite an acrobatic show.

Waitangi, New Zealand's birth place and Maori legend

Waitangi Visitor Centre and Treaty House is a place hugely symbolic as it is quintessentially the birth place of the modern New Zealand.  It was on these grounds, on 6th February 1840, that the Treaty of Waitangi was signed by the Queens representative William Hobson and over forty North Island Maori Chiefs. It was and still is shrouded in controversy as two versions were actually signed – one in English and one in Maori – and they were each understood to mean different things.  Despite this the Treaty of Waitangi was New Zealand’s founding document and is still widely referred to even today. Indeed the 6th February remains a national holiday. Being a bit of an historian I found exploring Waitangi fascinating. There is nothing really to compare with actually being on the spot where history was made. It is a place of particular significance to Maori and the museum here focuses on their fascinating and captivating story. Equally impressive is the huge Waka (Maori War canoe) that is displayed at the grounds. Thirty five metres in length makes it the largest in the world and it was constructed from two giant Kauri tree. Its takes 80 warriors to paddle and it can be seen on out the water on Waitangi day each year.

Russell, 'hell hole of the pacific' it certainly isn't!

Looking to discover a little of New Zealand’s history with a visit to its first capital city. Russell was once been described as the ‘hell hole of the pacific’ and I therefore wasn’t too sure what to expect. It certainly wasn’t the sedate and peaceful little town I encountered. Back in the 1830’s and known then as Kororareka it was the outpost for fleeing British convicts, whalers, outlaws and sailors shamed for their drunkenness and debauchery. This savage behaviour led to the arrival of European missionaries who went on to build the towns two oldest surviving buildings, Pompallier Mission which was named after Bishop Jean Baptiste Pompallier and the oldest standing church in New Zealand named Christ Church. A tour of Pompallier Mission allowed me access to the former print works that I discovered is still used to this day to produce handmade books.  When it was built in 1842 it produced dozens of Roman Catholic titles and over a prosperous period of eight years it also printed some of the first books available in the Maori language.  A short stroll from Pompallier is Christ Church which dates back to 1836. Its walls still bear the scars of bullet holes from muscat and cannonball - a legacy left by the Maori and British sieges that dominated the township during 1845. The sieges central character is Hone Heke a name synominous with these parts.  He was Maori Chief at the time and felt despondent when the financial benefits from the Treaty of Waitangi failed to materialise. In his anger he took to cutting down the Union Jack that had been raised on Flagstaff Hill overlooking Russell.  Hone Heke succeeded in cutting down the flag no fewer than four times in the space of a year causing enough provocation to start what was proclaimed the first New Zealand war. Today a flag is still raised on the hillside but only on a select twelve days of the year, one of them being the anniversary of Hone Heke’s death.

Aroha Island, beaches, paradise, wildlife and real kiwi

My night was to be spent at Aroha Island Ecological Centre. A causeway separates Aroha from the rest of the mainland and this idyllic setting of mangrove and New Zealand bush is home to numerous Kiwi birdlife. A programme of persistent pest control has eradicated most potential predators and allowed native bird populations to flourish. As I strolled across deserted beaches and transversed the islands walking tracks I was fortunate enough to spot pied oystercatchers, fantails and paradise shell ducks – all endangered birds thriving here. I also experienced the thrill of being frequently dive bombed by an overzealous ‘Tui’, one of my favourite New Zealand birds due to its mischievous nature and enchanting calling song, it can be a little territorial as I discovered to my cost. The causeway is closed at dusk which means anyone staying overnight gets to enjoy their own secluded little island. The accommodation is at a beach side campsite or one of three self-contained cottages. I had planned my own visit for the night time activity as much as the relaxed daylight vibe - for at night here once the darkness descends the locals tend to get a little bit rowdy. Aroha Island is home to a number of rare North Island Brown Kiwi and in such a smallish area tracking them is easy – well not exactly easy as tracking kiwi I have discovered never is – but here you do have a 50% chance of spotting one which I’m told is a pretty good return. Kiwis are night time foragers and being extremely timid they flee at the slightest noise. With my torch in hand (covered in red plastic so as not to damage kiwi eyes)  I headed out into the shadowy bush in an attempt to spot the elusive bird. Patience is a virtue as far as kiwis are concerned and I sat for a long time silently waiting. Finally a scuffle nearby caught my attention and I spun my torch into the depths of the dense undergrowth holding my breath. My kiwi was close by but I just couldn’t get a sighting. Clever camouflage is obviously another trait of this revered and flightless bird.

Top of the North, Cape Reinga, Mystery and Legend, the meeting of two oceans

There is a sense of mystery about Cape Reinga something a touch unique and unexplainable. It’s not quite the very top of the North Island of New Zealand as that claim is reserved for Surville Cliffs at North Cape - it is however the biggest drawcard for visitors to this remote and isolated coastline. The day I visited a haze lingered out across the headland and the wind raged mercilessly in powerful gusts. This did not do anything though to distract from the exquisite beauty of the weathered scenery. The rolling hills and vast sand dunes flowed downwards to the untouched beaches beneath. At Cape Reinga two oceans majestically collide as the Pacific and Tasman meet in a monstrous roar of wave and foam.  As I made my way down the meandering pathway I spotted a gnarly old Pohutukawa tree. Precariously perched on jutting rock overhanging the sea it was somehow clinging to life on this weather beaten cliffside. Maori legend tells that this is the point at which the spirits of the dead begin their final journey into the underworld to return to their ancestral homeland, Hawaiki. Their spirits leaping down off the tree into the depths of the unforgiving ocean below.

Up above on the headland stood Cape Reinga Lighthouse built back in 1941. It still provides a continuous beaming beacon of light as warning to any passing ship. Not far from the lighthouse was one of the most photographed sign-posts in New Zealand. Yellow pointed arrows indicate the direction of the South Pole in 3,840 miles and London 9,735 miles. Never mind London, I sensed I was a long way from just about anywhere. With the exception of the lighthouse and signpost the only other man made creations within a considerable distance were the car park and toilet/information block.  There was nothing else but endless ocean and resplendent scenery and I could truly believe I was at the end of this world, a sacred place where it was indeed possible that spirits could leap.

Rangitoto Island, Auckland, North Island

Rangitoto is Auckland’s most recent and arguably most impressive volcano emerging in a cacophony of fire and fury from the ocean floor only around six hundred years ago. Over the course of the next two hundred years an island was created that today sits proudly as an iconic feature in the heart of the Hauraki Gulf - the name given to the stunning marine area surrounding Auckland’s Eastern Coastline. Rangitoto is the perfect symmetrical cone shaped volcano featured on many a photograph or image of the city skyline.

I hopped on one of the early morning ferries across to Rangitoto keen to get out and explore as much of the island as possible. From the recently restored wharf at Rangitoto Island I followed the signs to the ‘Summit Track’ - the most popular and direct route up to the volcano’s peak. It took me just over an hour to climb the 3 km route and despite the island appearing as though it is smothered in bush, I came across vast, dark and desolate lava fields. I had been warned prior to my visit that on hot, sunny days the scoria landscape can become scolding to the feet as the heat reflects off the ground, luckily it was still early so my trainers remained unscathed! At 259 metres above sea level Rangitoto’s summit offered me a glorious 360-degree view of the Auckland Skyline and Hauraki Gulf. After a brief respite to absorb the splendour and discover the sights I continued onwards to follow a path around the outside rim of the volcanos crater. Rangitoto’s crater is a large deep space that I presumed would be full of rubble and volcanic debris, I certainly didn’t expect a forest! I peered down over the viewing platform railings to look out over the largest Pohutukawa Forest in the world. Gnarly trunked Pohutukawa trees bloom with crimson flowers in summer months and are therefore considered New Zealand’s adopted native Christmas tree. I discovered that in addition to impressive Pohutukawa, Rangitoto is home to over two hundred different species of native plants and trees all off which are flourishing in its predator free status. Over the last few years Rangitoto and its neighbour Motutapu (which are linked by a man-made causeway constructed during World War Two) have been categorised as protective islands. Essentially this means that they are predator free. All potential pests such as rats, stoats and possums have been successfully eliminated allowing for the restoration of native bush and bird life.

A short stroll back down from the crater summit I came upon the lava caves. Eager for adventure I flicked on my torch light and carefully made my way into the darkness of the caves exploring their hidden depths and discovering twisting tunnels. They were formed when hot lava drained out from inside a solid outer crust leaving a hollow tube. Rangitoto Island is home to seven such caves and luckily some are safe enough to be investigated by us general public. At one point I switched my torch off allowing my eyes to adjust to the total darkness, it was a surreal experience.

My hike continued taking me down another side of Rangitoto and along what is known as the Coastal Track - traversing mangroves that are home to numerous coastal birds. Apparently, these pathways were constructed during the 1920’s when prisoners were subject to hard labour on the island. In order to pay for these works island baches were built as holiday homes for families to visit. Thirty of these remain and are dotted alongside the coastal pathway. Bach 38 located next to the Wharf has recently been restored as a museum.

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