Spotting whales over Kaikoura

‘This whale is going to dive any second now, have your cameras at the ready’ our Pilot, Edward, shouted back from the cockpit of the small aircraft as we flew repeated circles around a magnificent sperm whale clearly visible just metres below in the clear teal waters of the Kaikoura sea. The ‘Wings Over Whales’ plane was set up perfectly to give every one of us seven passengers a perfect close-up view of any activity happening below. Sperm whales are resident all year round in Kaikoura as they feed off the ample quantities of squid that are present in the deep depths of the Kaikoura Canyon - a colossal underwater mountain range which begins just a short distance out from the shore line.

My experience began with a presentation about Kaikoura and the sperm whales followed by a concise but thorough safety briefing. Every flight appears to be timed to try to coincide with when they understand a whale may breach the surface – as each whale only spends roughly about ten minutes taking in air before descending vertically deep down into the dark depths below. The take-off along the grass runway was an experience in itself - before I even began to take in the majestic view out over the coastline.  It was the whales though that I really wanted to see, and I soon felt a rush of excitement throughout the plane as one was suddenly sighted. At up to eighteen metres in length these are true giants of the sea. From the air I was able to fully appreciate their substantial size and scale, from head to tail literally!

After experiencing such a buzz from the air, I figured that now I needed to get out in the water itself to encounter on a closer basis some of this area’s incredible marine life. You see the resident sperm whales are just the start, also present are huge pods of dusky dolphins, large breeding colonies of New Zealand Fur Seals and a staggering array of rare and unique seabirds.

Otago Peninsula, Pilots Beach, Little Blue Penguins coming home

The staff at the Royal Albatross Centre recommended I return that evening for a rather special homecoming. Each night at dusk huge numbers of Korora or Little Penguins arrive back at Pilots Beach just beneath Taiaroa Head on the Otago Peninsula. A purpose-built boardwalk allows visitors to experience the noisy and calamitous arrival without distressing or disrupting the penguins. Just as darkness appears to consume the shoreline the penguins begin to congregate into what is known as a raft to make a collective group return to dry land. As I waited silently I spotted dark shapes moving swiftly across the water as the rafts began to reach the shoreline. Loud squawks emerged out from the darkness. Then small dark silver specks started to tumble onto the beach, belly flopping ashore and then clumsily climbing up onto their flippered feet. And so, the penguin march began. It started with a few and then gradually these curious and cute little guys were all around us, scrambling over the rocky beach, meandering along well-worn penguin pathways to the grassy headlands above. Excited yelps cut through the night as penguins were reunited. Some paused for a while directly under my feet on the boardwalk. Others comically shuffled up a pathway to return shortly afterwards obviously having taken a wrong turn in their eagerness to arrive home. I checked with my guide who elatedly told me that over one hundred and fifty had returned that night, a thrilling result as numbers continue to increase following the protective measures put in place.

Taiaroa Head, Otago Peninsula, the only place on land to spot Albatross

A short way along the picturesque coastline from The Penguin Place is Taiaroa Head. Home to the world’s only mainland breeding colony for the Northern Royal Albatross. With wingspans of up to 3 metres the albatross are truly the giants of the seabird world. The first observatory opened here in 1967 and visitors now flock from far and wide for the privilege of seeing this mighty bird. I joined one of the guided tours at the Royal Albatross Centre to take a walk up to the glassed observation viewing area. Three nests where within sight and with the help of binoculars I peered across to the distinctive looking fluffy white albatross chick waiting for its parents return. A larger albatross hovered over another nest – I initially thought to protect the chick but was corrected by my guide who advised that this was instead a mischievous juvenile intent on bullying the youngsters whilst their parents were absent. The centre set up a successful Royal cam a couple of years ago on the headland. I was told that people worldwide have tuned in to discover the tenacious plight, adventure and achievement of the little albatross chick. Last year’s chick was named Tumanako and it fledged in September. After spending the next few years out at sea tracking across the Southern Hemisphere it is hoped Tumanako returns to raise a family of its own. I suspect thousands will be eager to hear news.

Face to face with the worlds rarest penguins - Penguin Place Otago Peninsula

Under our watchful gaze Todd shuffled awkwardly up the rugged hillside. Exhausted after a long day fishing out at sea, he had already conquered the lengthy walk across the wide windswept beach. He now faced a scrambled climb through bushland to his nest and hopefully a peaceful evening ahead. He stopped frequently to peer all around him to anxiously check for any potential predator. He appeared quite unaware of our small group a short distance away absorbed by his presence and keenly watching his every move. Our guides were great, constantly checking on Todd’s welfare and urging everyone to respectful silence. We were hurriedly moved along if any disturbance was observed for Todd is a very special little guy. He is one of a frightening low number (and sadly dwindling) of Yellow-eyed Penguins or Hoiho that still exist in New Zealand. Found only on the Eastern Coastline of the South Island these adorable little chaps with their distinctive yellow eye bands are the rarest penguin type in the world.  The Penguin Place at Otago Peninsula is an inspirational spot. They are open to the public for tours which take place usually as the penguins return home for the day which is a few hours before dusk. They help to promote the plight of these endangered little birds with all proceeds from the tours being put towards further research and ongoing penguin care.

The tour is an adventure in itself! I followed my guide through an underground network of camouflaged tunnels which have been elaborately and carefully built to reach deep into the heart of the penguin colony. An ingenious way of enabling people to get close to the penguins without causing them too much disturbance. I followed my guide Julia on a rapid march through the tunnels to the nest of Maggie, the only current resident female who was sat proudly guarding her nest. Maggie is quite a character. She previously ignored bachelor Rodd’s persistent courting ritual, to remain with long time partner Jim – who at 24 is the colonies oldest surviving penguin. However, this season Maggie has jilted Jim in favour of a younger intruder. Matai is from the neighbouring Catlin’s region and has invaded the Otago colony and stolen the girl! Such is the soap opera world of the Yellow-eyed Penguin!



Dunedin, Discover Street Art, Fabulous Cafes and Modern Charm

As I strolled back down through the streets of central Dunedin I allowed my imagination to run wild. I pictured the horse drawn carts tracking up town clip-clopping along the long avenues that all seem to lead towards The Octagon. Purpose built to be the central point of the city The Octagon is a large plaza with pedestrian areas and lively cafes, bars and restaurants. It is easy to get absorbed by Dunedin’s charismatic past, but that is not to ignore the modern city which is a charming, bustling student town with a thriving coffee culture. Strolling around I came across enticing cafes on every corner often situated in distinguished heritage buildings.  With names such as Morning Magpie and The Perc Exchange for example they help to set the hip and modern vibe which the city is seemingly embracing. Street Art is also flourishing. Down alleyways, overlooking carparks ostensibly on every possible blank space or bare wall a contemporary street artist has made their descriptive, interesting and notable mark. Both New Zealand and International artists have been drawn to the city including notable names such as Faith 47 and ROA. ROA is responsible for some captivating aerosol work with one wall covered by a giant Tuatara, a reptile endemic to New Zealand. Keen to embrace its flourishing art profile Dunedin has established its own Street Art Trail which can be followed either on a guided tour with a passionate local or by following the Dunedin Street Art Map which is provided by the local tourist office. As I trail blazed around town following the ninety-minute walk I was able to appreciate not only lots of inspiring art work but also to uncover some of Dunedin’s hidden gems. The walk gave me an excuse to check out narrow laneways and discover ‘wee alley ways’ as they are locally known together with significant land marks that included the ‘First Church of Otago’. I stumbled across some excellent local venues such as Vogel Street Kitchen – a terrific coffee house and deli which has a striking piece of work by the UK street artist Phlegm on its corner wall. A Maori Waka and steam punk like submarine emerge out of a fish’s mouth which apparently is a reference to a story involving a Japanese submarine in Otago Harbour.

Now I had started delving into the world of art I couldn’t stop. The Dunedin Public Art Gallery sits on one side of The Octagon and exhibits contemporary modern art by Kiwi artists. It is also home to some more traditional work by renowned European artists such as Monet, Turner and Gainsborough.

Dunedin is rapidly making a name for itself as a fun and dynamic place to visit. Perhaps it is the influence of a large student population or maybe just down to the inherited pioneering and adventurous spirit of its people – whatever the reason it is a city that moves with the times whilst fully embracing it’s past.

Dunedin, Olveston House - reliving a time from the past

Intrigued by Dunedin’s obvious appreciation of its history and heritage I decided to join a one-hour tour of Olveston Historic Home which was built at the turn of the 19th Century by a wealthy merchant named David Theomin. David had settled in Dunedin having emigrated from his English homeland.  Guided tours are conducted daily and offer visitors a fascinating insight into both a 19th century merchant family and their lifestyle and residence. On the tour I discovered that David was an active patron for the arts, and particularly loved Japanese collections. This was certainly evident when the tour took us through into the entrance vestibule which houses a remarkable assembly of Japanese weaponry collected by David over the years. The Theomin Family lived in the house until 1966 when upon the death of the daughter Dorothy Olveston was bequeathed to the city of Dunedin. It opened the following year as a museum and I was told that over the intervening years very little had been changed. As I followed my guide through each of the rooms I experienced what was essentially a time capsule to life as a prosperous merchant living in Dunedin in the inter war years. You could almost imagine hearing the bell ringing to summon servants to quarters.

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Dunedin, home to New Zealand's most photographed building, Farmers Market

My day had started at the Otago Farmers Market which is fast becoming a Dunedin institution. Held every Saturday morning the stalls here sell local produce and creative goods that are highly sought after. It’s a great spot to wander around with heaps of choice from fresh orchard produce, mouthwatering cake stalls, local meats and freshly caught fish all being sold. Be prepared to go there hungry - as I discovered it is very difficult to resist the homemade porridge, tasty bagels, freshly cooked crepes and the tantalizing smell that lingers around The Bacon Buttie Station.

The market is situated in the grounds of the Dunedin Railway Station, an elegant building which reminded me of the quintessential gingerbread house. The neo classical style dates to Edwardian times and it is often argued to be the most attractive building in New Zealand – from what I witnessed it certainly has a legitimate claim for being the most photographed both inside and out. The entrance hall and foyer are awfully grand with the mosaic floor in the booking hall lounge usurped only by the Royal Dalton porcelain freeze, featuring train images, that curves its way around the overhanging balcony. The station is now used for the Taieri Gorge Railway, a charming train journey into picturesque Central Otago.

Dunedin, the deep south - Toitu Otago Settlers Museum, living history

The bottle of whiskey was a parting gift from a Scottish mother who waved goodbye to her son as he set sail on his epic voyage to Otago, New Zealand on the far side of the world. It was extremely unlikely that the two would ever meet again and so the whiskey was kept as a keep sake to a time past. The son swore that he would only open it on his one hundredth birthday but alas he lived to be just ninety-four. The whiskey remains sealed and is now an exhibit at the Toitu Otago Settlers Museum. Representing one of many tales told about the hardships, adventures and tribulations that the original Dunedin settlers encountered. Interesting exhibits at the Museum include Gold, Gold, Gold a reference to the 1861 gold rush and stories of the Scottish Presbyterians who arrived in 1843 to establish ‘A new Edinburgh’ and found ‘Mud-edin’ – an appropriate nickname for the topography around Dunedin at that time. The most striking exhibition for me though was Across the Ocean Waves which took me inside a replica of the sailing boats used to carry the new settlers. The longest voyage in the world meant surviving cramped conditions with little storage space and even less privacy. In rough seas it must have been terrifying – these were hardy imperious souls these first Otago expats. These remarkable stories captivated me and piqued an interest in discovering more about the heritage of New Zealand’s most southern city.

Bay of Islands paradise, dolphins and Captain Cook

The Bay of Islands premier holiday spot Paihia is an appealing place with three gorgeous sandy beaches, attractive waterfront accommodation, lively bars and restaurants. It is also the starting point for a vast array of water activities.  With over 144 islands scattered throughout the Bay of Islands not getting out on the water would seem rather criminal. With this in mind I joined one of the popular ‘Hole in the Rock’ cruises which I was told was a must do. As I peered over the front railings of the boat and did my very best titanic impression I was fortunate to spot several little penguins and even a hammerhead shark. These crystal clear turquoise waters teemed with marine life. Being at the front of the boat also had its advantages when we cruised out to Piercy Island and its famous ‘hole’. If the conditions are right the boat ventures right through the very middle of the hole and out to the Pacific Ocean beyond - a surreal experience. Sailing out around the islands we were told some fascinating stories. Robertson Island was where Captain Cook had anchored the Endeavour. My personal highlight was Black Rocks where only the tops are visible from the lava flow left behind about 1.2million years ago. The rocks are actually sheer cliffs which drop down to the sea floor as far as thirty metres below, quite incredible.  The climax of the trip for everyone though was the spotting of several fins surfing through the water as a pod of bottle nosed dolphins raced towards our boat.  They apparently frequent the bay and are spotted regularly. They love to frolic around and swim with the boats and were grandly applauded as they put on quite an acrobatic show.

Waitangi, New Zealand's birth place and Maori legend

Waitangi Visitor Centre and Treaty House is a place hugely symbolic as it is quintessentially the birth place of the modern New Zealand.  It was on these grounds, on 6th February 1840, that the Treaty of Waitangi was signed by the Queens representative William Hobson and over forty North Island Maori Chiefs. It was and still is shrouded in controversy as two versions were actually signed – one in English and one in Maori – and they were each understood to mean different things.  Despite this the Treaty of Waitangi was New Zealand’s founding document and is still widely referred to even today. Indeed the 6th February remains a national holiday. Being a bit of an historian I found exploring Waitangi fascinating. There is nothing really to compare with actually being on the spot where history was made. It is a place of particular significance to Maori and the museum here focuses on their fascinating and captivating story. Equally impressive is the huge Waka (Maori War canoe) that is displayed at the grounds. Thirty five metres in length makes it the largest in the world and it was constructed from two giant Kauri tree. Its takes 80 warriors to paddle and it can be seen on out the water on Waitangi day each year.

Russell, 'hell hole of the pacific' it certainly isn't!

Looking to discover a little of New Zealand’s history with a visit to its first capital city. Russell was once been described as the ‘hell hole of the pacific’ and I therefore wasn’t too sure what to expect. It certainly wasn’t the sedate and peaceful little town I encountered. Back in the 1830’s and known then as Kororareka it was the outpost for fleeing British convicts, whalers, outlaws and sailors shamed for their drunkenness and debauchery. This savage behaviour led to the arrival of European missionaries who went on to build the towns two oldest surviving buildings, Pompallier Mission which was named after Bishop Jean Baptiste Pompallier and the oldest standing church in New Zealand named Christ Church. A tour of Pompallier Mission allowed me access to the former print works that I discovered is still used to this day to produce handmade books.  When it was built in 1842 it produced dozens of Roman Catholic titles and over a prosperous period of eight years it also printed some of the first books available in the Maori language.  A short stroll from Pompallier is Christ Church which dates back to 1836. Its walls still bear the scars of bullet holes from muscat and cannonball - a legacy left by the Maori and British sieges that dominated the township during 1845. The sieges central character is Hone Heke a name synominous with these parts.  He was Maori Chief at the time and felt despondent when the financial benefits from the Treaty of Waitangi failed to materialise. In his anger he took to cutting down the Union Jack that had been raised on Flagstaff Hill overlooking Russell.  Hone Heke succeeded in cutting down the flag no fewer than four times in the space of a year causing enough provocation to start what was proclaimed the first New Zealand war. Today a flag is still raised on the hillside but only on a select twelve days of the year, one of them being the anniversary of Hone Heke’s death.

Aroha Island, beaches, paradise, wildlife and real kiwi

My night was to be spent at Aroha Island Ecological Centre. A causeway separates Aroha from the rest of the mainland and this idyllic setting of mangrove and New Zealand bush is home to numerous Kiwi birdlife. A programme of persistent pest control has eradicated most potential predators and allowed native bird populations to flourish. As I strolled across deserted beaches and transversed the islands walking tracks I was fortunate enough to spot pied oystercatchers, fantails and paradise shell ducks – all endangered birds thriving here. I also experienced the thrill of being frequently dive bombed by an overzealous ‘Tui’, one of my favourite New Zealand birds due to its mischievous nature and enchanting calling song, it can be a little territorial as I discovered to my cost. The causeway is closed at dusk which means anyone staying overnight gets to enjoy their own secluded little island. The accommodation is at a beach side campsite or one of three self-contained cottages. I had planned my own visit for the night time activity as much as the relaxed daylight vibe - for at night here once the darkness descends the locals tend to get a little bit rowdy. Aroha Island is home to a number of rare North Island Brown Kiwi and in such a smallish area tracking them is easy – well not exactly easy as tracking kiwi I have discovered never is – but here you do have a 50% chance of spotting one which I’m told is a pretty good return. Kiwis are night time foragers and being extremely timid they flee at the slightest noise. With my torch in hand (covered in red plastic so as not to damage kiwi eyes)  I headed out into the shadowy bush in an attempt to spot the elusive bird. Patience is a virtue as far as kiwis are concerned and I sat for a long time silently waiting. Finally a scuffle nearby caught my attention and I spun my torch into the depths of the dense undergrowth holding my breath. My kiwi was close by but I just couldn’t get a sighting. Clever camouflage is obviously another trait of this revered and flightless bird.

Top of the North, Cape Reinga, Mystery and Legend, the meeting of two oceans

There is a sense of mystery about Cape Reinga something a touch unique and unexplainable. It’s not quite the very top of the North Island of New Zealand as that claim is reserved for Surville Cliffs at North Cape - it is however the biggest drawcard for visitors to this remote and isolated coastline. The day I visited a haze lingered out across the headland and the wind raged mercilessly in powerful gusts. This did not do anything though to distract from the exquisite beauty of the weathered scenery. The rolling hills and vast sand dunes flowed downwards to the untouched beaches beneath. At Cape Reinga two oceans majestically collide as the Pacific and Tasman meet in a monstrous roar of wave and foam.  As I made my way down the meandering pathway I spotted a gnarly old Pohutukawa tree. Precariously perched on jutting rock overhanging the sea it was somehow clinging to life on this weather beaten cliffside. Maori legend tells that this is the point at which the spirits of the dead begin their final journey into the underworld to return to their ancestral homeland, Hawaiki. Their spirits leaping down off the tree into the depths of the unforgiving ocean below.

Up above on the headland stood Cape Reinga Lighthouse built back in 1941. It still provides a continuous beaming beacon of light as warning to any passing ship. Not far from the lighthouse was one of the most photographed sign-posts in New Zealand. Yellow pointed arrows indicate the direction of the South Pole in 3,840 miles and London 9,735 miles. Never mind London, I sensed I was a long way from just about anywhere. With the exception of the lighthouse and signpost the only other man made creations within a considerable distance were the car park and toilet/information block.  There was nothing else but endless ocean and resplendent scenery and I could truly believe I was at the end of this world, a sacred place where it was indeed possible that spirits could leap.

Pohatu Penguins, restoration and conservation, truly inspiring

‘welcome of the wild side’ Joey exclaimed as we drove high above the headland and down into the valley below. The views were amazing indeed but we were not here for these. Having spent the afternoon hanging out with seals and dolphins the conservationist in me was keen to discover more about the local marine life, across on the remote South East corner of Banks Peninsula was an incredible story. Over in Flea Bay was an example of what can be done with a lot of hard work and determination. Pohatu Penguins is a family run eco tourism encounter created by 30+ years of hard work by a sheep farming family. Dedicated to saving the little white penguins, endemic to Canterbury they have successfully built and maintained the largest colony of little penguins to be found anywhere in Australasia. I met up with their engaging daughter, Joey, to learn more. Joey grew up in Flea Bay and spent days with penguins being rehabilited in her kitchen so she certainly knows a few things about these adorable little guys. We began by covering ourselves in camouflaged capes to help disguise our presence with the penguins. The New Zealand spring time through early summer is the time that the penguins nest and our job that night was to check on a selected group of eggs and chicks to ensure everything appeared good and healthy. Nests are now present all over the large farm with some man made and others penguin created. Apparently the penguins are little battlers and love nothing more than kicking rabbits out of their burrows to claim them for their own! Beachside properties are in much demand and are usually an indication of the fittest and strongest parents thereby the most robust little chicks. The lingering smell of penguin poo is a good sign of a healthy chick and this was certainly present at box one. I could barely contain my excitement as joey opened the box to unveil two very fluffy bundles. At three weeks old they looked to be doing well. As night fell we used binoculars to peer out to sea. Heading home in what is known as rafts – groups of penguins gathered together for safety to await landfall at darkness.  A few braver souls landed early on the rocks below us flopping in ungraceful penguin fashion on to dry land. As darkness descended our time with the penguins came to an end –  a low grumble from a bush told us we had to leave to allow them the security of returning to their nests without any human presence. I was deeply humbled to have spent a short amount of time in their landscape and to have witnessed some inspiring conservation work.

Hanging out with the world's smallest dolphin whilst crusing Akaroa Harbour

Akaroa Wharf is where the local boat tours depart and my next objective was to get out into the harbour on board the Black Cat catamaran. Known as the scenic nature cruise the description was befitting as the views were simply breath taking. Set within the caldera of on extinct volcano the harbour is 27 km in length. Apparently the serene calmness and geology of the harbour confuses some who mistake it for lake. As we cruised out towards the vast Pacific Ocean our skipper Julian, provided us with a continuous interesting and amusing commentary. Joking at one point that anyone who bought the discounted cruise fair needed to disembark at Akaroa Head and walk back to town – a distance I would guess of somewhere near the 27km! Julian pointed out the Onuku Marae situated on the waterfront and famous as being the first Marae on the South Island to sign the Treaty Of Waitangi, New Zealand’s official founding treaty between the Maori Chiefs and the British representatives of Queen Victoria. We were able to spot numerous sea birds including some recently hatched spotted shags that used the ledges of the cliff created by the volcano to nest. Our boat sailed into a giant sea cave with great acoustics that we all roundly tried out. We even learnt that Nikau translates in Maori as ‘no coconut’ in reference to the local palm tree which is the most southern growing – unlike its Pacific counterparts it has no coconuts. As spellbinding as the scenery was nothing could complete with the excitement created by the local marine life. Akaroa Harbour is now a marine reserve and at what point we happily pointed out a white flippered penguin swimming by – this species of penguin are unique to the Banks Peninsula and are a type of the Australasian Little Penguin. New Zealand fur seals were spotted snoozing on rocks and playing in the many safe pools left by the sea. And then we spotted the Hector’s Dolphin – although to be honest I think it might have been a case of them spotting us. Incredibly playful in attitude they soured through the water straight towards out boat keen to check us out. The Hector is endemic to New Zealand’s South Island and are some of the smallest of their kind to be found. They are distinctive in their appearance with their grey bodies, black and white markings and rounded dorsal fins. With their acrobatic display and enthusiastic nature they stole the show – at one point I counted nine hanging out on the bow of the boat.

The small seaside town of Akaroa is the areas main hub. Akaroa means long harbour in Maori and the whole township essentially revolves around this. Back in 1838 Capt. Langlois provisionally purchased this area for the French only to return a couple of years later with 63 fellow emigrants to discover the British had claimed it as their own apparently only seven days earlier. The French though were invited to stay and create their own settlement, their influence is still obvious today. Street lights are French in style, sign posts and street names take you to Paris, with names like Rue. Even the local butchers is known as the boucherie.  

In the evening I was picked up from Akaroa in a rusty old Toyota belonging to Onuku Farm Hostel and taken in this refined luxury down a bumpy end of road track to the far side of the peninsula. From here I leapt on the back of a quad bike with my bag to find my accommodation for the night! A novel way to arrive. The former sheep farm is home to a wide range of accommodation types all with picturesque views. My own night was going to be spent in something called a ‘Stargazer’, essentially a wooden tent with a glass panel as its roof. Wiggling in to your sleeping bag in the confined room is a fair challenge but I was game. I fell asleep to a cloudy sky and no chance of experiencing any star gazing. However, a few hours later I turned over on to my back to the most dazzling sights ever – the whole galaxy seemed to lay before me twinkling and glistening in the complete darkness of the sky. I was awoken the next morning to the delightful call of the bell bird and tui, two of NZ’s most iconic birds and most certainly the most tuneful. Despite not having the greatest of sleeps, but still pretty content I journeyed back to Akaroa.

The Little River Rail Trail follows the route of an old 19th Century railway track from Hornby on the outskirts of Christchurch through to the small settlement of Little River on the Banks Peninsula. Little River was original a sawmill community supplying timber to Christchurch back in the day but is now largely a tourist spot, a great pit stops between the city and the peninsula. Its old railway station is home to the visitor centre. The Little River Rail Trail is a popular mountain bike/walking track that can be completed in various sections of choice along its 49km route. I hopped on my bike at Motukarua (another small settlement) with the aim to cycle at least 2 sections between here and Little River itself. The track at this point is raised slightly as it followed the old railway embankment past Lake Ellesmere, New Zealand largest saltwater lake, Birdlings Flat – a small holiday town with a wild and dramatic rock-strewn beach which is great to take a windswept walk along, across to the smaller but no less impressive Lake Forsyth. As I peddled along I was rewarded with some spectacular views. The upper range of New Zealand’s Southern Alps was clear to see on this bright clear day. The track traversed through wetlands that teamed with bird life – black swans gracefully floated alongside the path and herons, kingfishers perched on bridge posts as crossed. The track in this area is all off road and there are only a few crossing places to navigate. As I reached Little River I was all too ready to reward myself with some much-needed refreshment. The café here was a perfect spot to appreciate a slice of cake in a sunny garden area.

Lyttelton, Farmers Markets and trips across to Diamond Harbour

Whilst I am disinclined to use the term ‘bohemian’ to describe a place, it is in all honesty the most appropriate way to define the historic seaside port of Lyttelton. Separated from Christchurch by the sharp jagged rock formations of the imposing ‘Port Hills’ Lyttelton has very much its own identity - a mix of quirky and artistic. It is also home to a vast array of cafes, restaurants and bars – which despite their numbers seem mighty popular and well patronised. The landing place of the first Canterbury settlers’ way back in 1850, Lyttelton was badly damaged in the February 2011 earthquake when a lot of its heritage buildings were lost and destroyed. Now well over five years later repairs are still being carried out, but premises have been rebuilt and areas restored and the town is enjoying life once again in a resolute and gratifying fashion. I timed my visit for a Saturday morning when the Farmers Market was in full swing. London Street, Lyttelton’s main through-fare, thronged with local folk and visitors alike browsing homemade wares and tasty produce. Stalls were piled high with organic breads, home-produced sausages, salamis, wine and chocolate. The bakery store was especially enticing with its mound of cream filled chocolate eclairs! I was grateful I had taken advanced notice and skipped breakfast to enjoy guilt free tastings of pastries, Stewart Island smoked salmon and freshly made organic juices.

A short walk down-hill from London Street and its market place is the Port of Lyttelton. Here I caught the Black Cat Ferry - a service running every half an hour, zipping you speedily across the bay to sleepy Diamond Harbour. At Diamond Harbour there is a small jetty and sheltered sandy beach that offers stunning views back across the narrow stretch of water to Lyttelton. A pleasant stroll up-hill through pleasant memorial gardens brought me to the petite town centre. It’s a great place to spend a peaceful couple of hours.

Mount John, Lake Tekapo and the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky reserve

Mount John and Lake Tekapo are home to the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve – the acclaimed largest dark sky reserve on this planet. Staying in the area I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to join up with Earth & Sky on a Mount John Observatory Tour. Living the life of an astronomer of course means working the night shift and as it was New Zealand summer time this meant it was pretty late by the time I clambered up on board the Earth & Sky coach. As we approached the top of Mount John and our driver kindly informed us that he was now switching off his headlights so as not to disturb the astronomers working above I began to wonder how foolhardy I was being! It hadn’t helped that the journey prior to the lights out part had been quite hair-raising with the access road up both steep and narrow with no obvious safety barrier at either side. There wasn’t much to separate any wrong turn with a steep sheer drop down below. Luckily our driver was a professional and after a brief respite had his night vision sorted whilst I in turn gripped tightly onto the hand rail on the seat in front. I don’t think I was alone. We were safely delivered to the top a short while later thankfully and once we had recovered our senses somewhat were split into small groups.  Each group was allocated a guide to lead us on a discovery of the southern skies. Fortunately it was a clear night with great visibility and not too much cloud cover. My eyes gradually adjusted and as I peered upwards I could easily make out the Milky Way and Southern Cross. Our guide pointed out numerous star constellations including the plough which was actually the opposite way around to what a lot of us had previously experienced in the Northern Hemisphere. It soon became obvious as to why the reserve had been chosen as here high above the Mackenzie basin I felt on top of the world – so much above everything else that it felt as though I could reach up and touch the stars. The only unnatural light in the area was way down below at Lake Tekapo, however even there special lighting had been introduced to help minimize any light pollution. The real highlight of the tour was being taken into the white domed telescopic buildings where I was shown a genuinely large and powerful telescope, the type you only really see on television. Our guide lined the telescope up - all done electronically - and allowed me to take a long look through. Suddenly distant glittering clusters of stars and galaxies dazzled in front of my eyes.

Lake Tekapo, Mt John and the MacKenzie Basin, don't miss the Church of the Good Shepherd

As I approached Lake Tekapo from the west it was impossible for me to miss Mount John perched high above the Mackenzie Basin. Tekapo is home to another of this region’s iconic locations with yet another impossibly blue lake surrounded by snow laden mountains. Feeling energetic I elected to walk up along the lake shoreline to the Mount John summit track. This provided me the opportunity to wander across to the Church of the Good Shepherd and join the legions of sightseers with cameras at the ready to snap the perfect shot. The Church was built not only as a place of worship but as a lasting memorial to the pioneering Mackenzie families. Its large glass picture window offers the most impressive lake side views which surely must be a distraction for even the most devout worshiper. A short stroll from the Church is the statute to celebrate the hard-working farm dogs of the Mackenzie, without whom farming this area would have been virtually impossible. Hiking along the lakeside pathway I began to climb up through forest which gradually dwindled away leaving only mountain tussock. The baroness of this land allowed me to fully appreciate the 360-degree panoramas on show across the stunning Mackenzie basin. At the top of Mount John, the Astro Café was a welcome spot for refreshment and I indulged myself with a decadent hot chocolate cleverly decorated with a space pattern in its foam – a tribute to the areas dazzling night skies